Walking or driving, visitors prefer the Promenade, so far as it goes,
for a thoroughfare east and west. It is not very well kept, but it is
better than the main street, which one soon gets acquainted with, as it
is the only continuous passage for traffic. At a central part of the
street, where there is a cross entrance to the Promenade du Midi, will
often be seen a mixed throng of loungers of the ouvrier and vetturini
type, through which passengers have to thread their way. This place is
evidently the favourite lounge for town gossip, where there is
frequently something to excite critical remark in connection with the
octroi. At this spot is the receipt of custom for duties on animals
coming into the town for slaughter, and which must go through the
preliminary ceremony of being weighed. One after the other is urged to
walk on to the flat top of a steelyard, level with the ground, and
scarcely distinguishable from the street. What the poor animals cannot
rightly comprehend is the reason for making them stand on a particular
spot and no other. Oxen—great horned beasts of a light dun colour, which
have been driven from distant pasturages—are tolerably docile, and
require little management. They stand stupidly with their heads bowed
down, till the man in the adjoining office records their weight. Pigs—a
dark-skinned race like the Hampshire brocks, but with long legs, and
nearly as nimble as greyhounds—are more difficult to deal with. Disposed
constitutionally to take their own way, they can by no artifice be
persuaded to go or stand quietly on the machine. They move, they
wriggle, they bolt. Then begins the popular merriment. The onlookers
shout with laughter on seeing the abortive manœuvres of the drivers
to bring their charge to a proper sense of obedience. One of the
obstreperous pigs at length darts off in a state of indignation down the
street, with twenty gamins full cry after it—the groups of loungers all
the time frenzied with delight, and one of the _sergents de ville_, a
merry personage who seems to spend his days in chatting and smoking,
evidently relishes the _contre-temps_ with all his accustomed humour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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