The slopes to the sea-shore, after passing Grimaldi, if less
picturesque, possess an interest from archæological circumstances. The
land, rich and beautiful, had pertained to a number of families of
distinction, each with a palazzo of old Italian architecture, the
approach to which had been by lofty gateways, surmounted by heraldic
devices, and opening on the old Roman way. As that way is now broken up,
and all but impassable, the palazzos are in the awkward position of
being left without a road. All that can be done is to make pathways down
to them from the modern Corniche, and in a country where donkeys play so
important a part in social economy, the absence of regular roads is
perhaps not esteemed a serious inconvenience. If anybody wants to buy a
palace with fifty to a hundred acres of land on the borders of the
Mediterranean, here is his chance. Revolutions and what not have cleared
out the old families. The actual proprietors are living somewhere in
penury and obscurity; their palazzos are shut up, with boards in the
windows instead of glass; and the only major-domo is a peasant dwelling
in an outhouse, to take charge of the grounds. Several properties were
pointed out to me (1869) as being for sale.
The idea of making an investment in Italy may not be pleasing. One never
knows what may turn up. Possibly, this is being too sensitive. Distance
is said ‘to lend enchantment to the view,’ but it sometimes also lends
unnecessary apprehensions. On the spot, everything looks as composed and
harmless as may be, and whatever political turmoils may occur, this cosy
nook in the Riviera offers a retreat not likely to be molested. It is a
great thing to acquire a palazzo and the importance of a seigneur for
two or three thousand pounds—to make your own oil and wine, eat your own
oranges and figs, and have boating and yachting to any imaginable
amount. It is something in the catalogue of recommendations, that the
authorities at the neighbouring town of Ventimiglia are delighted (and
no wonder) to see Englishmen buying properties about them; any one,
therefore, settling down in the neighbourhood, may expect to be treated
with profound civility and consideration. Then, think of being within an
hour’s drive of France—Mentone quite at hand, whence friends can come to
see you on all occasions during the season, and the douaniers at the
frontier giving no sort of trouble. I retain a vivid recollection of the
richly-prolific grounds which environ these old and traditionally
dignified palazzos. Peeping within the gateway, you see an enclosure
exuberant in orange, citron, and fig trees, with vines trained from
pillar to pillar over the silent approach. Amidst the foliage towers the
old gray battered edifice, shut up, and sorrowful, with nothing to
animate the scene but the swallows wheeling in their busy flight around
the deserted mansion. My visit to these palazzos was in the month of
January, when peas (probably raised for market) were in full bloom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account