An English gentleman has bought one of these properties, the Palazzo of
Orengo, near Cap Murtola, and renovated it in first-rate style. The
mansion occupies a site so prominent as to command a view of Mentone.
With the grounds and some water privileges, it was a cheap purchase.
Even with cost of repairs, it was a prodigious bargain. Politely invited
to the palazzo, we went in a hired carriage from Mentone, but
unexpectedly found that it could not take us further than a point on the
high-road overlooking the house, two hundred feet beneath. A walk down,
and the use of a donkey up for Madame, made all easy. I was of course
interested in the interior of the structure, with its white marble
stairs, its inlaid floors, and loggia off the drawing-room, in the upper
floor of the mansion. In every old palazzo two things appear to have
been essential, a draw-well and a loggia. The draw-well is here situated
at one side of the marble-paved entrance-hall; being, however,
tastefully enclosed, it does not appear out of place. Without a loggia,
it would be scarcely possible to exist in the heats of summer. At
Orengo, the loggia is a square apartment, open on two sides, the roof
being supported on pillars. Seated in this shady retreat, the family
enjoy the pleasures of the open air, with a view of the gardens beneath
and the adjacent sea-beach. A flight of steps on the side next the sea
leads down to the original entrance to the grounds from the old Roman
road, here distinctly traced, about twelve feet wide.
Conducted over the gardens, I had the pleasure of being shewn a variety
of trees and shrubs natural to a tropical climate, and rarely seen in
the open air in Europe. During the short ramble, I learned some facts
regarding the antiquity of the water channels which one observes
everywhere, and of the punctilious way in which custom and legal rights
guard the privileges of the proprietors. The water for the grounds is
led from a torrent, which at certain times turns a mill for pressing oil
from the olives. In consideration of the priceless value of water,
something like a grudge was felt that there was somewhere hereabouts a
subterranean river which had its outlet in the sea, where it could be
seen boiling up and running to waste. Nobody could tell where it came
from. All that could be conjectured was that it found its way through
the limestone rocks from some place far distant, it might be a hundred
miles off. If that river could be but tapped, and diverted to some
useful purpose, what visions of wealth for the neighbourhood! Perhaps,
thought I, this may come about. What a prize for the Mentonians if they
could manage to tap and impound a subterranean and ever-running river! A
gold mine would be nothing to it.
[Illustration: Palazzo of Orengo.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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