Observing English newspapers on a table in the house, a talk ensued
about the irregularities of the French postal system. On settling here,
the _Times_ was ordered from London _viâ_ Mentone, but so frequently was
it late in arriving, that at length the expedient was tried of procuring
it by way of Turin and Genoa (some hundreds of miles about), and ever
since it had arrived with regularity and despatch. I am glad to have at
least one good thing to say of Italian administration, and were the
circumstance properly known, it might shame the French into an improved
system of forwarding English newspapers to strangers residing in their
country. In the pleasant society at Orengo, a few hours sped quickly
away. On our departure, after being hospitably entertained, a school of
little girls, under charge of their mistress, stood awaiting us on the
road. It was an agreeable surprise. At a signal, before entering our
carriage, which had been in attendance at the village, they united in
singing a hymn expressive of good wishes. Having concluded, they
individually presented us with bouquets of sweet-scented violets, and
kindly courtesied an adieu.
CHAPTER VIII.
There is one other excursion which ought not to be omitted. It is to Cap
Martin, and will be comprehended in a forenoon walk. What, I think, may
particularly interest strangers, is a sight of the largest and finest
olive trees in the whole Riviera, and also some curious Roman remains,
of which no one can give any perfectly satisfactory explanation. A few
days before my departure from Mentone, I made this excursion.
Fortunately, I was not alone in the journey. I was favoured with the
escort of Mr M. Moggridge, an English gentleman of nearly my own age,
who has resided a number of winters in Mentone with several members of
his family. Uniting a singular saliency of disposition with scientific
tastes, and happily possessing a wiry frame, which seems to defy fatigue
and exposure, he has been able to undertake journeys over a lengthened
tract of the Riviera, from the sea-shore to the tops of the highest
mountains. In 1862, he occupied himself in exploring the caves in the
limestone rocks on the shore near Pont St Louis, already noticed,
bringing to light bones, pieces of charcoal, and flint instruments,
which are the puzzle of historians. In the midsummer of 1868, he made an
expedition to the mountainous region of the Laghi delle Meraviglie,
thirty-two miles north of Mentone, and there, at the height of 7825 feet
above the level of the sea, copied certain hieroglyphic inscriptions on
rocks, which bear some remote resemblance to those remarkable stone
carvings in Scotland which have engaged the inquiry of antiquaries. Ever
on the alert, chiefly with a view to investigating the nature of the
plants in the Riviera, and so aiding the inquiries of his son, who has
written some elegant brochures on the botany of the district,[A] Mr
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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