[Illustration: VIEW FROM FOOT–BRIDGE OVER CARREI, MENTONE.] WINTERING IN THE RIVIERA WITH NOTES OF TRAVEL IN ITALY AND FRANCE AND _PRACTICAL HINTS TO TRAVELLERS_ BY WILLIAM MILLER, S.S.C. EDINBURGH With Illustrations LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1879. [_All Rights Reserved._] MORRISON AND GIBB, EDINBURGH, PRINTERS TO HER MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE. THIS VOLUME, CONTAINING MEMORIES OF HIS BELOVED DAUGHTER’S LAST JOURNEYINGS, IS INSCRIBED TO CHRISTOPHER GODWIN, ESQ., J.P., STOKE BISHOP, BRISTOL. CONTENTS. PAGE PREFACE, x I. _CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING._ Former and Present Times—Bugbears—Language—Passports—Impedimenta—Guide–Books— Hotels—Money and Exchange—Routes to Paris—Cook’s and Gaze’s Railway Tickets—_Voyages circulaires_—Supplementary Billets —Customs Examination—Time—Railway Arrangements—Billets—_Salle d’attente_—Guards and Porters—Carriages—_Dames seules_—Smoking —Carriage Windows—Speed—Train Peculiarities—Stations—Omnibuses —_Petite vitesse_, 1 II. _HOTEL AND PENSION LIFE._ Hotels—Railway Results—Construction—Lifts—Charges—Bougies—Service—Rooms—Meals —Breakfast—Lunch—_Table–d’hôte_ Dinner—Supplies—Wine—Dining _à la Carte_—Foreign Practices—Life at Table—Pension—Charges —Extras—Fires—Gratuities—Bills—Cook’s and Gaze’s Coupons —Amusements—Tarantella Dance—Remuneration to Performers —Charades—Readings—Plays—Amateur Performances—Musical Bands —Furnished Villas—Cost—Servants, 43 III. _LOCAL MEANS OF CONVEYANCE._ Private Carriages—Horses—Carriages for Hire—Whip–Cracking —Cruelty to Horses—Italian Cabs and Cabmen—Horse Bells —Fares—_Pour boire_ and _buona mano_—Drives beyond Town —Crossing Swiss Passes—Diligences—Steamboat Travelling —Omnibuses—Tramways, 82 IV. _POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS._ Post Rates for Letters—Underpaid Letters—Newspapers—Registration —Letters for Interior—Post Cards—Delivery—_Poste restante_ —Pillars—Postmen, 98 V.