Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
One of the most delightful residences in this neighbourhood is the
chateau of the Duke of Vallombrosa. This Italian nobleman asked,
as the sole recompense of services rendered to the King of Italy,
the title which he now bears. His villa is in the castellated
style, and stands upon an eminence—a very picturesque object in the
landscape, and seen from all parts round. The grounds attached to the
house—extending, I suppose, to at least eight or ten acres, and the
oldest about Cannes—are, in the duke’s absence, open to visitors. To
those who have not previously seen any gardens of the kind, it appears
a sort of fairy–land, if such a term can be applied to a place where
much of the timber is gigantic. The vegetation is rich, luxuriant,
tropical, and the place looks delicious on a sunny day, under the
cool shelter afforded by the trees from the rays of the sun, while
here and there a fountain sends up its refreshing stream of water.
Below the battlemented castle terrace, a shady grotto has been built—a
cool retreat in hot weather, perhaps too cool to be safe. This garden
contains many lofty specimens of a tree recently introduced into the
Riviera, and everywhere to be seen there, called the Eucalyptus. A
relic of the Eocene period,[17] when everything was on a huge scale,
it shoots up with amazing rapidity, apparently something like ten
feet in a year, and I believe ultimately reaches sometimes a height
of nearly 500 feet. I have seen it stated in a colonial paper that
the largest known, grown in (I think, speaking from recollection)
New Zealand, has reached the height of 480 feet, and is claimed to
be the highest tree in the world. Probably it is not of great age,
as the growth of the Eucalyptus is much more rapid than that of the
Californian trees. As it matures, it changes the form of its leaf from
what it was when young, and sheds its bark. It possesses some very
health–bringing properties, or is an antidote to what is insalubrious,
and bears a beautiful white flower. In the duke’s gardens some of
these trees are very lofty. They were, I presume, planted about twelve
or fifteen years previous to our visit, and appeared to be then
considerably over 100 feet.
A hill called the Croix de Garde slopes up behind the Villa
Vallombrosa, or rather to the northward. It is several hundred feet
high, and its summit, crowned with pine trees, commands an extensive
prospect, and forms a delightful walk to those who are able to make
the ascent. The view comprises the bays and all that I have already
described. A little iron cross, inserted in a stone upon the top, to
which no doubt some legend attaches, gives its name to the height.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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