Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The Corniche road below, running between the lines of villas,
conducts to a little village called Verviers, about three miles from
town. Here there is a large forest of umbrella pines bordering the
coast, furnishing opportunities of study to the artist and to the
photographer, and where one can enjoy a forenoon’s rambling about. The
railway cuts the forest off from the shore, and flanks the beach all
the way till it arrives close upon Cannes, and must therefore operate
injuriously to the amenity. So far as the villas are concerned, they
have, by means of bridges or otherwise, communication with the sea.
Fortunately, however, for Cannes, the railway leaves the coast about
half a mile from town, and passing through a tunnel proceeds by the
back of the town, where the station is.
From near the point where the railway diverges from the shore, the
public promenade on the west bay commences. This is lined by palm
trees, but the dust and the sea air together seem inimical to their
development. The main promenade is that which, commencing with the
harbour, runs eastward to the point of Croisette, a distance of from
two to three miles. It is a great resort of visitors both on foot and
in carriages. A band of music plays alternate days on the east and
west bays. In each of these bays there are bathing establishments of a
construction peculiar to the Riviera, being somewhat of the nature of
the Lacustrian dwellings. They are simply wooden sheds for undressing
and dressing in, resting upon poles stuck firmly into the beach, with
depending ladders to enable the bathers to descend to the water. As
the beach shelves very rapidly down, I presume that bathers who cannot
swim must always be in charge of an attendant or be tied by a rope;
but whether it was that the bathing may have taken place at an early
hour, I have hardly ever seen any person indulging in a bath at Cannes
during our brief visits, although the temperature is seldom such
throughout the winter as to forbid the exercise to persons in good
health either at this or at other parts of the province. I have seen
at Nice (a colder place than Cannes) people bathing towards the end of
November. By a strange fatality, for one can hardly suppose it to be
the result of deliberate arrangement, we observed that close by each of
the bathing establishments a drain has been run into the sea, the same
practice occurring also at Biarritz. These drains are so odoriferously
disagreeable as to make it unpleasant to walk along the promenade,
while one would think that some parts of Cannes ought in consequence
to be unhealthy. At all events, they must to a certain extent nullify
the good got from residence at this otherwise agreeable and fashionable
watering–place.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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