Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
Of these, the first was Christmas day. Among the English people this
was maintained in the usual manner; but we had heard that there
would be a grand service according to the Roman Catholic form in the
cathedral or parish church, and we went thither. The Church of St.
Michael, a large one, dating back, it is said, to the thirteenth
century, was draped with crimson cloth, and a profusion of gold or
gilt articles was displayed at the altar, which was lighted up with
an immense quantity of candles. The place was crammed with people,
the crowd even extending a good way outside the door. After the
usual service and chanting, the great event of the day took place.
Several priests, preceded by a tall janitor in cocked hat and uniform
and halberd, in humble imitation of the grand man of the Madeleine,
commenced parading through the church, one of them bearing in his arms
a wax doll, baby size, as if new born, which he held out to be kissed;
and every one, even respectable–looking people, pressed forward as they
slowly progressed to kiss the doll’s foot. When he came our length,
the priest, a jolly fat man, who, whatever he may have felt at the
absurdity of the scene, contrived to keep his countenance, quietly,
seeing at a glance we were Protestants, or what was the same thing,
‘Anglais,’ presented it to others, and did not give us a chance. A
priest behind him took up the collection. Each person, besides, had
to pay for the use of a chair, some paying for two, one being used to
kneel on.
* * * * *
New Year’s day is, however, the great day among the native population;
and gifts among the foreigners are usually then exchanged, in place
of, as with the English, on Christmas day. A very common form of such
gifts is that of a large bouquet of flowers, generally more than a foot
in diameter, laid out in circular symmetrical rows, the flowers on
short stalks being supported by wires. They look pretty, but stiff, and
do not last so long as our assorted bouquets with their long stalks.
On occasion of a birthday, the heroine of the day, if popular, and the
event were known, would often get three or four such sent to her.
* * * * *
On the 3d of February we saw bands of young men parading the streets
in an uproarious manner, with flags, and preceded by drummers beating
the usual rat–tat–tat. We could not imagine what this meant, until
informed that it was the day upon which the young men drew lots for
the selection of those who were to serve as conscripts in the French
army. The noise and merriment were, like the tom–tom at a Hindoo suttee
funeral pile, doubtless intended to hide the agony and to drive away
thought, if they any had, from the ‘chosen few.’
[Illustration: CORSICA AS SEEN BEFORE SUNRISE. MENTONE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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