Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
A week later witnessed the grandest event of the season, for on
10th February the keeping of the Carnival commenced. For some days
previously, the shops were full of false faces, wire gauze masks,
strange dresses, and confetti; and cars were in course of decoration
for the event, which necessarily, in a small place like Mentone, could
only be upon a small scale. The coming affair was the grand talk of
the town, and we had even some masquerading before it came. At last
the eventful morning dawned. It was a complete holiday. Every one
turned into the streets, or took possession of windows, balconies, and
other salient points; while the promenade was ornamented with long
venetian decorated poles, such as we had planted in the streets of
Edinburgh when the Queen came to unveil the Prince Consort’s statue in
1876. Balconies were draped, flags were everywhere fluttering in the
breeze, and the Cercle where prizes were to be distributed was gaily
dressed with evergreens and coloured calico. At mid–day the procession
was expected to move; but it was much too important to move off so
early, and did not commence till two o’clock. Meantime the streets
were filled with people in the oddest and most comical attire, with
masks on their faces, rendering them unrecognisable by their friends.
One of these figures was absurdly dressed in feathers as a huge cock,
while another represented a still larger eagle. All this time the
people were peppering each other with confetti, small round chalk
pellets smaller than peas. But the grand peppering was reserved for
the procession, which at last hove in sight. It was preceded by a car
filled with musicians in carnival costume, who did not play, being
probably afraid lest their instruments might suffer damage. Then a
long row of fancy soldiers ambled forward on horseback, two and two,
dressed in a uniform of blue coat and white trousers, looking very
gay. Then various cars were dragged slowly or staggeringly along in
odd devices, one of which was the representation of a gigantic lobster
pie filled with men dressed out in red as boiled lobsters, while the
horses had vast coverings as black or unboiled lobsters. Another car
personified classical statuary, the men and women being chalked or
painted over in white, and intended to be motionless, but as taken
being well shaken, not always succeeding in preserving either rigidity
or composure. Various other cars, besides walking figures, and people
in carriages, all disguised, completed the procession, which, like a
stage army, to make up for the want of numbers, passed round the circle
and repassed repeatedly. All this time, the people in the street, or
on the balconies or scaffoldings erected for the occasion, and in the
carriages and cars, continued to fire away at each other a copious
shower of confetti. These were discharged with a right good–will;
but all, except the improvident, being protected by masks and calico
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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