Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
garments, no damage was suffered, except when a man audaciously
appeared in a good hat, which hat was battered by discharges of
confetti without mercy. Young men and young ladies adopted the novel
method of flirting by vigorously pelting each other, and wicked men
would quietly and furtively slip a handful of confetti down a woman’s
open neck. This tomfoolery was begun upon the Saturday and continued
upon the Monday, but was not practised upon the Sunday at Mentone. At
Nice, however, where the English do not preponderate, the Carnival,
which was there upon a larger scale, was kept up on the Sunday, and
about twenty of the visitors (foreigners, of course) at our hotel went
to Nice to see it. On the Monday night the promenade was lighted up
by means of paper Chinese lanterns, and there was an exhibition of
fireworks, concluding with setting in blaze a giant figure representing
‘the Mentone man,’ well stuffed with tar. The streets on the following
day, as well as previously, were covered with the chalk pellets, and
it was some time before they were swept and restored to their ordinary
condition.
* * * * *
Of a different sort were other days regarded as eventful in so quiet a
place as Mentone. A fall of snow was an event, the discovery of ice in
the river, even a rainy day was to be noted. But of all days of this
description, those in which Corsica was visible were the greatest,
and the query when friends met on such days always was, ‘Have you
seen Corsica this morning?’ It was only in peculiar states of the
atmosphere that this distant island became visible, and it happened
perhaps six times in the winter. Just before sunrise,—generally from
a quarter to half an hour before, if the atmosphere was particularly
clear, and especially if frosty,—the sun rising behind Corsica revealed
the tops of mountains from 90 to 130 miles off, and from 6000 to 9000
feet high: the vision remained till the sun rose to the horizon, when
it disappeared. I was always on the watch on likely mornings, and
succeeded in taking a sketch of the view, which, by verifying at each
successive appearance, I rendered exact. The engraving opposite is a
little more than half that of the original sketch, which was just as
seen. Only on one occasion was Corsica visible during the day. This
happened in the second winter, on 26th November 1877. I had seen it in
the morning, and was incredulous when informed in the forenoon that
it was then visible. Seeing was believing, however; for there it was,
and it remained in sight the whole day till four o’clock, the sun
throughout shining brightly _on_ it instead of behind it, so that this
appearance was quite different from what was seen in the morning. I
looked upon it as the harbinger of wet weather, and accordingly for
some days afterwards we had rain.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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