Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The day continued fine throughout, but heavy rain fell through the
night, and the next morning was very cold. We drove about for two hours
to see the town; but it became so cold, wet, and windy, that we had to
give up further visiting for that day. Among other places we visited
Santa Maria de Carignano, a great church, built by the munificence of a
single Genoese citizen, which crests the eastern height overlooking the
town; and from the terrace on the top of it there are magnificent views
of the entire panorama—the harbour, the coast east and west, the city,
and the mountains, which there lay, covered with a coating of snow,
which no doubt had fallen through the night, and gave a very bleak
appearance to the surroundings. I could gladly have remained up for a
long time (the others had not ventured), but the cold was so great that
I could only take a momentary glimpse. We had also from the opposite
extremity of the town a different view, looking from the harbour near
to the lighthouse upward to Genoa, rising in crescent form line above
line from the basin of the port. The street itself, which surrounds
the port, is for the most part noisy, bustling, and dirty—by no means,
therefore, attractive. At some parts the passage is nearly blocked by
loiterers, who may perhaps, by a stretch of charity, be supposed to
be actively prosecuting some busy calling, just as may be seen on the
street of a country town at home on a market day.
* * * * *
The following day was dry, but cold, and afforded an opportunity for
going about a little on foot, and seeing some of the large churches
and the streets of grand palaces for which Genoa is famous. These
palaces (some of them now used for purposes other than those for
which they were built) are principally situated in a line of streets,
called the Vias Balbi, Nuova, and Nuovissima. Like those of many of
the Italian towns, these vias are paved with large flat blocks of
stone, neatly, closely, and uniformly laid. The palaces themselves
are massive stone buildings of the elegant Italian style now so often
adopted by our architects in designing banks and public offices, the
walls generally in rustic work, and the cornices rich and heavily
projecting, the large windows protected from assault by thick outside
iron gratings and stanchions, imparting a very prison–like look. The
palaces are lofty and handsomely built, and the entry is generally by
a large gateway to an inner court, round which further buildings are
placed. Wide handsome staircases, quite a marked feature, conduct to
the upper floors. The streets which are lined by these palaces are so
narrow that the elegance of design is greatly lost to the eye. On this
the occasion of our first visit, we had only opportunity of seeing the
Palazzo Brignole, which contains a fine collection of paintings by the
great masters Vandyke, Guido Reni, and others. Among them we observed
a particularly good St. Sebastian by Guido.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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