Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
In the following year we
visited some additional palaces,—viz., first, the Palazzo Durazzo
on the Via Balbi, a magnificent house with a much–noted staircase.
Notwithstanding the family were then residing in this palace, we were
shown through about a dozen rooms, in which the hangings were of superb
elegance, and the walls richly adorned with pictures. Thence we went to
the Palazzo Balbi, a fine mansion, but not equal to the Durazzo; and
thence to the Palazzo Reale, one of those royal palaces which the King
of Italy seldom visits, but which he nevertheless appears compelled to
maintain. The rooms are beautiful, the queen’s bedroom particularly
rich and dazzling. The facilities afforded for seeing these palaces,
which no one going to Genoa should, if possible, omit to visit, are
very commendable. A fee of 1 franc to the attendant is all that there,
as elsewhere in Italy, is expected.
* * * * *
The churches of Genoa are, like all Italian churches, very dark and
very dirty—purposely ill–lighted, no doubt, to produce a dim religious
light, and dirty because it is part of an Italian’s religion in church
to spit upon the floor and otherwise to consider that cleanliness is
next to ungodliness. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the neighbouring
Jesuit Church of San Ambrogio are large buildings, especially the
cathedral, and possess fine altars, surmounted by show pictures, and
otherwise are richly adorned. The Church of San Annunciata, on the way
to the railway station, is profusely gilded.
* * * * *
In the afternoon we walked to the Aqua Sola, a public park, which is
evidently a place of resort of the Genoese gentry. Being a winter
day, there were not many going about; but we saw a number of handsome
equipages with Italian horses, their long flowing tails touching the
ground. A very curious kind of curricle, such as we saw nowhere else,
was constructed with high wheels, and seated, like a country mail cart,
for one person only. This was drawn by one horse at full speed, and
between two of them a race was run round and round the park. We had
seen a good many of the women walking about town, having a mantilla or
veil depending from the head—a graceful Genoese fashion, although one
would hardly think it could afford much protection from either cold or
heat. But here, for the first time, we saw some of the grand Italian
nurses, who are generally dressed in a most peculiar and magnificent
attire, their hair fantastically decked with large pins, very gorgeous
to behold. There were evident degrees of magnificence, dependent, I
suppose, to some extent upon the condition of the family in whose
service the nurses were. The children also in their charge were attired
in costumes more or less brilliant and rich, everything in Genoa being,
I presume, from a palace to a hair–pin, necessarily ‘superb.’
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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