Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
but can scarcely, because it is so, be called picturesque, though at
least it is striking or prominent; and I suppose it does or can, with
other fortifications, offer some protection to the port; but it was,
and perhaps still is, used as a prison, and, in spite of sunshine, is
gloomy enough for that. From this point southward, commencing with the
broad Strada San Lucia, the harbour lies, in which there is a moderate
amount of shipping, but small as compared with that of Genoa. Life
abounds about this harbour and the adjoining quays, along which broad
streets run, filled with sellers of fish and other commodities, and
with crowds of pedestrians and carriages. The road turns up from S.
Lucia into the large open space called the Piazza del Plebiscito—one
side occupied by a handsome semicircular colonnade, and the other by
the royal palace, where the king was at the time of our visit residing,
two equestrian statues in the centre of the piazza contributing to
its adornment. The Toledo or High Street of Naples issues out of it.
Proceeding farther along the harbour, and at its extreme south, we come
to the Castel del Carmine, also forming a feature in the landscape, and
from it a road leads up to the railway station, which is just outside
the inhabited part of Naples. From the harbour, or any point which
commands a view, the town looks bright and picturesque, and in rather
striking contrast with its dirty population. Ascent of the lighthouse
for the sake of the view is recommended.
* * * * *
The only church in Naples which we thought at all comparable to those
in Rome was the cathedral, which is a large and handsome building. One
of its side chapels is that of the famous St. Januarius, where the
blood and other relics of the martyr are preserved.
The hotels are situated principally on the line of buildings facing the
sea from the Chiaja southward to S. Lucia. But some new hotels have
been opened on the high ground near the Castle of St. Elmo, thought to
be a more healthy locality. This may or may not be, but one requires
to be careful as to where he lives in Naples. In fact, the natural air
of Naples must be extremely salubrious, to counteract, as it seems
to a large extent to do, the evil influences arising from so large a
population living upon so comparatively small a portion of the tideless
Mediterranean. Were it otherwise, fever would be constantly raging, and
Naples depopulated.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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