Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
We spent the forenoon of the following day in the Museum. This is an
immense collection of antiquities, principally from Pompeii, and is
well worthy of several visits, without which, in fact, it cannot be
properly studied. Illustrated catalogues can be procured, which are
no doubt useful, but are expensive. Our time would only allow of a
general examination. The Museum contains thousands of articles of great
interest, and very many which show to what a state of perfection art
had arrived at the time Pompeii was destroyed. The sculptures of all
descriptions and pictures are very numerous, and among many others
deserving of special note was the grand group called the Toro Farnese,
of masterly power. It is composed of five graceful and pleasing human
figures, besides the bull rampant and a dog, and other sculpture, and
if cut out of one block of marble, would seem to be a miracle of art.
Why it should have been removed from Rome to Naples I am not aware.
But the Museum at Naples is very spacious and extensive, and may have
afforded better accommodation than any place in Rome. Some of the
rooms are filled with articles of domestic use recovered from the
ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii; and, what is very curious, in one
room loaves of bread, grain of various sorts, dates, and other edibles
1800 years old are exhibited. Many of the curious frescoes found upon
the walls of Pompeii have been removed to the Museum and built bodily
into its walls. The colours of these frescoes are considerably faded,
but copying them seems to afford employment to a number of artists,
who, however, impart to their copies the supposed original brightness
of the pictures, and one seldom sees an original Pompeian fresco
possessing that vividness of colouring which representations of them
usually manifest. One room is fitted up as a reproduction of a Pompeian
bedroom, and gives a greater idea of luxurious comfort than one would
imagine possible from the appearance of the rooms, now in ruins, which
we afterwards saw in Pompeii itself.
* * * * *
The afternoon is the time for seeing the Chiaja, for then all the
private carriages of Naples may be witnessed driving about; and on one
occasion we had the good fortune to pass the Princess Margherita, now
the Queen of Italy. Girls are on the watch to sell large and beautiful
bouquets of flowers at marvellously cheap prices. An aquarium has been
built near the centre of the Chiaja gardens, which we visited the
morning of the day following, before going to Castellamare. It is not
nearly so large as that at Brighton, but it is interesting enough.
It contained, _inter alia_, a good many octopi, which repulsive fish
is said to be sold and eaten in Naples, and, in all probability,
occasionally appears under some disguised name at the hotel dinners.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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