Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
Another fine drive is to the very ancient town of Fiesole, which
stands on a hill upon the north side, and is about three miles out of
town. There is here a curious old church or cathedral, with pillars
said to be of the first century. Ascending a hill a little higher,
and probably 1000 feet above the sea, the view from the top is more
commanding than that of San Miniato, and one sees the Arno winding its
way for a long distance down the valley, and the Carrara Mountains in
the distance. These and other drives about the suburbs of Florence give
the impression of a very charming place for a spring residence; but
Florence is hot in summer and often very cold in winter time, fierce
winds blowing from the hills, which I suppose are frequently covered
with snow. The older portions of the city are similar to most Italian
towns, full of narrow, tortuous streets; but adjoining the river and in
the newer portions, and in the outskirts, the streets are regular and
comparatively wide, with piazzas or open spaces in several parts. There
are wide, handsome boulevards or _viales_ encircling the city. In the
Piazza Cavour there is a graceful triumphal arch akin to that in the
Tuileries of Paris. At the west end, and adjoining the Arno, a large
public park extends, called the Cascine, in which are long avenues
bordered by trees, affording room for delightful drives and walks, one
portion being also laid out as a racecourse. In the quarter south of
the Arno the Boboli Gardens attached to the Royal Pitti Palace are also
extensive, but open to the public only on Sundays and Thursdays.
* * * * *
Florence, historically, is a place of great interest, and is associated
with many great names. It is the birthplace of, among others, Dante,
Boccaccio, Machiavelli, Galileo, Michael Angelo Buonarotti, Cimabue,
Fra Angelico, Leonardo da Vinci, Carlo Dolci, and others eminent in
art. The houses of some of these celebrities are pointed out.
I can imagine that to those who spend a winter in Florence it must be
exceedingly interesting to study the history of the place, and read on
the spot such entertaining books as the remarkable life of that most
remarkable man, Benvenuto Cellini, giving, as it does, such an insight
into Italian life in the sixteenth century. Machiavelli, who died in
1527, brings his history down only to the year 1492; but after reading
Trollope’s history, in four vols., Napier’s in six (leaving off at the
year 1824) will afford for a whole winter a sufficiently tough _pièce
de résistance_, the perusal whereof one’s physician would no doubt
recommend should be diversified occasionally by a chapter in Mrs.
Oliphant’s _Makers of Florence_, or by George Eliot’s _Romola_, which
it is to be hoped was not drawn from the life.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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