Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
Florence, although in itself a more desirable place of residence than
Rome, has no Roman ruins. It possesses, however, very many objects of
great interest. There are within it about ninety churches, not a few of
which are attractive.
The cathedral, commenced about six hundred years ago, and in its façade
not yet finished, is immense, being 556 feet long by 342 feet wide. The
spirit in which it was originated was lofty, the Florentine Republic
desiring ‘that an edifice should be constructed so magnificent in its
height and beauty that it shall surpass everything of the kind produced
in the time of their greatest power by the Greeks and Romans.’ It is,
at least in external covering, composed of marble—white, black, and
green—with many sculptures and carvings in the marble, especially about
the doorways. The stones are laid on a species of panelling consisting
of upright parallelograms broken by large, formal, circular openings.
Though it be somewhat stiff in pattern, and may be objected to as
piebald, a certain richness of effect is produced. But the interior
is not correspondent with the exterior; it is vast, but too bare and
empty, and dark and dingy—perhaps, therefore, the more sublime! Looking
up from below into the magnificent dome, it seems an enormous height
to the lantern; as it no doubt is, being 352 feet—so high, in fact,
that the dome itself is higher than that of St. Peter’s, although the
highest pinnacle is not. In design and general effect, as a whole, the
cathedral will not compare with the great temple of Rome. The campanile
or bell tower which adjoins, but is separated from it, is of marvellous
beauty, and stands nearly 300 feet high. It is a perpendicular square
tower, built of every kind of coloured marble, adorned by statuary and
covered with rich alto–relievos (of which photographs can be procured);
also by the graceful windows, very charmingly decorated in a species
of suitable tracery. There is a completeness about this tower, even
though it lacks the spire with which Giotto intended it to be crowned,
combined with an exuberant affluence of decoration, which renders it a
delightful object of contemplation, or rather, I should say, a choice
object of study.
* * * * *
On the side of the piazza opposite to the west front the baptistery
stands, an octagonal building 94 feet in diameter, and in one of the
entrances the celebrated bronze gates are placed. We often availed
ourselves of opportunities to examine these beautiful embodiments in
bronze of Scripture subjects. Being exposed to the street, they are
laden with dust, which to a certain extent reduces their apparent
sharpness. Over this entrance gate there is a representation of the
baptism of Jesus in three sculptured figures—our Lord, John the
Baptist, and an attendant angel. Inside the baptistery, besides its
oriental granite columns and its mosaics, there is nothing very
remarkable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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