Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The visitor, however, is at first most attracted by the Piazza della
Signoria, which—the centre of business—is a large open space, wherein,
or in its neighbourhood, some of the most important buildings are
congregated. On the south side of this piazza there is a lofty,
covered, arcaded hall, called the Loggia dei Lanzi, open on two sides
to the street by arches resting upon high ornamental pillars. Here
are arranged some of the most beautiful modern statues in Florence,
including the Rape of the Sabines in marble, by Giovanni da Bologna—a
spirited work, which, like some of the others, is constantly being
copied on a small scale in marble and alabaster, for sale in the shops;
and Perseus, a bronze statue by Benvenuto Cellini, a master of whose
works there are various specimens to be seen in Florence. Both these
stand in line with the front of the Loggia. Behind them are several
other groups, including the Rape of Polyxena, Hercules slaying the
Centaur, and one supposed to represent Ajax dragging along the body of
Patroclus or of Achilles, all in fine powerful action. Tall, massive
buildings have been erected on another side of the square, and opposite
them, sentinelled by statues, the Palazzo Vecchio rises grandly but
grimly, with its conspicuous campanile towering over everything
around. This palace is well worthy of a visit. Immediately within the
doorway we found, in contrast with the exterior, a graceful entrance
court, encircled by an arcade supported by rows of columns florid in
arabesques, each differing from the others, and a small fountain in
the centre giving life to the whole. Ascending a long stair, we were
ushered into an enormous hall, ornamented by six huge fresco paintings
representing events in the history of Italy. On a floor above we were
shown a chapel and several small rooms, in one of which there was a
model of the proposed façade of the cathedral. I suspect it will be a
long time before the façade itself be an accomplished fact. It appears
strange that it should be allowed to remain in its present condition,
a blemish upon the building, and a reflection upon the spirit in which
the erection was commenced.
* * * * *
The house of Michael Angelo is not far from the Piazza. It has been
converted into a museum, and contains, besides a series of paintings
representative of events in his life, with some of his drawings and
models in wax, and a small collection of works of art, a closet
or studio in which he wrought, and a portrait and statue of this
extraordinary artist and fiery independent man, conscious of a genius
as versatile as it was unrivalled. The high estimate in which he has
been held by those qualified to judge may be seen by referring to Sir
Joshua Reynolds’ _Discourses_.[40] In another street an inscription
upon a stone in the wall denotes a house in which Benvenuto Cellini at
one time lived.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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