Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The monastery, formerly of the Silvestrine, afterwards the Dominican
monks, now the Museum of San Marco, is close to the church of San
Marco. Here are to be seen a great many paintings by the pure–minded
Fra (Giovanni) Angelico, who resided in the monastery during the first
half of the fifteenth century. All his works, wrought out in prayer,
are distinguished by the beautiful though smooth painting of the faces,
many of which, here and elsewhere in Florence, are angelic, or, as we
might more correctly designate them, of a saintly, soft beauty, and
composed, devout inexpressiveness of any passion, but peculiar both
in attire and employment. It would be a mistake, however, to set down
all Angelo’s faces as of this description, as in some of his paintings
there is great diversity of contour and of expression, although the
drawing is often singular and in the pre–Raphaelite style. I suppose it
is generally correct, although not always. In one instance I noticed
that a neck seemed to be a linked sweetness rather long drawn out.
There is likewise shown in this museum, which is in reality a range of
monkish cells, the little cell in which Savonarola, the illustrious,
eloquent prior of the order, lived,—a man of great force of character,
a precursor of Luther, fearless as Knox, and a saviour of Florence,
whose people, when they burnt him at the stake, put to death their
greatest benefactor. In a large room were exhibited an immense
collection of the flags, banners, and colours of all the towns and
corporations of Italy which were represented at the Dante festival in
1865.
On the south side of the river, with the exception of Minesota, the
churches do not appear to be so fine; but there is one, the church of
San Spirito, which is large and attractive, and contains no less than
thirty–eight chapels encircling it—by far the largest number of side
chapels attached to a church I have seen anywhere.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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