Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
At all times artists are engaged, in both the Uffizi and Pitti
Galleries, making copies of the more celebrated or most attractive
pictures—occasionally two upon the same picture; and they do proceed
with most wonderful patience and infinite pains, copying to the
minutest hair, and laying on coat after coat with the greatest
delicacy, some of them attaining to great excellence. A _permesso_ is
necessary to copy, and for some of the more celebrated paintings the
artists, I was told, had sometimes to wait their turn for years. When
they have, after elaborate painstaking, made a good copy, I fancy they
manufacture other copies from it. I was fortunate enough, among others,
to secure a copy of the lovely Madonna del Cordellina by Raphael, so
perfect that it might almost vie with the original. It was obviously a
copy direct from, and inspired by, the original. Beside it stood in the
same shop another copy, but oh! how different! I believe that some of
the copiers attach themselves more particularly to given masters,—for
example, one in general copies Titians, another Murillos, another
Raphaels. To protect against the abstraction of pictures from the
galleries, no one is allowed to take a picture, not even a copy, out of
Italy without a _permesso_. I bought a small copy of a Titian in the
galleries, and the artist (Adolphe Boschi) accompanied me with it to
the town, because, he said, they would not have allowed me to pass with
it myself.
There is one little inconvenience attendant upon the extreme length of
the galleries. Upon occasion of my first visit, I had unfortunately
taken an umbrella, which I was obliged to leave at the door of the
Uffizi Gallery. After wandering to the extreme end of the Pitti
Gallery, I had to retrace all my steps to regain this umbrella. It is
better, therefore, if anything must be left at the door, to confine a
visit to one or other of the palaces, and there is abundance in either
to engage a whole forenoon.
* * * * *
Not far from the Piazza della Signoria is what is called the National
Museum, contained in the old Palazzo del Podesta, rich, but severely
rich, in its architecture. The ground floor is occupied with ancient
and modern armour and arms. Above there is a gallery of statues, some
of them by Michael Angelo, a room full of majolica, another of ivory
carvings, two of bronzes, two of tapestry, and two of sculpture; but
the collection, though interesting, looks small after experiencing the
extent of the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries, and seems hardly deserving to
be dignified with the name of National.
The Corsini Palace, on the Lung Arno, is open three days in the week
to the public, and contains in twelve rooms a large collection of
paintings, many of which are by the great masters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account