Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The Academia delle Belle Arti contains a large collection of
pre–Raphaelites, commencing with Cimabue, and comprising among others
some fine Peruginos. It is accordingly interesting. In an upper floor
several rooms exhibit paintings by modern Italian artists, principally
battlepieces. I paid a visit also to the rooms of the Association for
the Encouragement of the Fine Arts, which seems to be founded somewhat
on the same principles as similar associations in Great Britain;
but from such opportunities as I have had of forming an opinion, I
cannot say that the mantle of their great predecessors—whose works are
constantly before them, and might be thought calculated to inspire—has
fallen upon the modern Florentine artists.
* * * * *
Florence, besides being a great place for the sale of copies of
paintings, and for the manufacture of the well–known massive and
tastefully–decorated picture–frames, all carved out of the solid wood,
upon which the gilding is laid without any mixture of composition,
is the place of all others for the manufacture and sale of marble and
alabaster sculpture, and of the beautiful Florentine mosaic jewellery.
It is filled with shops for the sale of these various articles, which
are to be had at moderate prices, and strangers seldom leave without
more or less extensively making purchases.
* * * * *
The streets of Florence are always full of life. Occasionally of an
evening a body of men, perhaps twenty or thirty, would form themselves
in a ring, and with deep, rich, melodious voices sing Italian songs.
The power of voice or strength of lungs which the Italians sometimes
possess is indeed often exhibited in a surprising manner. All of a
sudden, walking along a street, it may be meditatively, a vendor of
small wares will abruptly at your very ear, and without apparent
effort, discharge a sharp, stentorian cry, piercing and startling
as with the shock of a nine–pounder, and nearly knocking you down
breathless and affrighted. The markets, too, are noisy,—bargain–making
being a serious operation, in which success is supposed to attend the
most vociferous and energetic,—but sometimes they are more quietly
conducted. Having once penetrated them, and found myself in the press
of a great crowd in very narrow passages, and in odious proximity
to heaps of most unpleasant–looking fish, it was with no little
satisfaction I made my escape as soon as escape was practicable.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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