Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
as a traitor to Venice, is painted under veil. These portraits in
all likelihood are, at least among the earlier Doges, as reliable as
are those of the early kings of Scotland in the gallery of Holyrood
Palace, or of those of the earlier popes in certain churches in Rome.
The rooms, however, of greatest interest are those in which the Doge
and his council assembled in conclave; and one cannot help, when in
such rooms, endeavouring to conjure up old scenes happening there, and
thinking how the glory of Venice has departed.
When in the library we were asked to go into a small room off it,
where we were shown some old MSS., and a fine old unique breviary,
with most beautiful illuminated illustrations. It has been or is being
photographed, and I presume copies will be for sale.
The dungeons, which are seen by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, are, so
far as shown, small, but sufficiently repellent.
* * * * *
The Doge’s Palace abuts upon the church of St. Mark, which we rarely
passed without entering. On Whitsunday (20th May 1877) a grand service
was held in the church. The singing was performed by about from twelve
to twenty choristers in the organ gallery, with a leader. The voices
were splendid, and the music very fine. On another occasion we walked
round the gallery of the church under guidance of an attendant, and
examined the mosaics, of which one thus gets a nearer view. They are
imposing, but unfortunately are giving way in many places. At a west
window we were taken outside to see the four fine bronze horses over
the portal, which form a feature in the ornamentation of the façade.
The horses are, however, in size small, and apparently not sufficiently
gigantic for the situation.
In the Piazza di San Marco immense flocks of pigeons are always to
be seen; they are kept under the protection of the city, the law
being that to kill or ill–treat them is a punishable offence. Every
day at two o’clock they are regularly fed with grain, and they are
said to know the time so exactly as to arrive for their dinner from
all quarters at the precise hour. It is certainly remarkable to see
how tame they are, being quite devoid of the fear and dread of man,
perching all over any stranger who will feed them, with as much
confidence as if they were with Adam or Eve in the Garden of Eden.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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