Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
After we had seen a good deal of Venice we ascended the campanile of
St. Mark. This is a wide square tower, and by a commodious sloping
internal ascent the belfry is attained, where we get among the bells.
The hours are struck by a man stationed to pull the ropes and watch for
fires, which, when he discovers, he notifies to the proper quarter—a
useful, but, I fear, a rare species of precaution against this species
of calamity. The view from this tower (which is 322 feet high to the
hair of the angel’s head, an altitude which I need scarcely say we
did not attempt) is commanding, ranging over the city and lagunes,
looking, however, as I have already said, a little too directly down
upon the roofs of the houses below. However, one gets a pretty clear
idea of the map of Venice, with its multifarious canals, islands, and
narrow streets. As stated by Bædeker, the ‘15,000 houses and palaces
of Venice (population, 128,901) are situated on 3 large and 114 small
islands, formed by 147 canals, connected by 378 bridges (most of them
stone), and altogether about 7 miles in circumference.’ I occasionally
endeavoured to thread my way through the narrow streets of Venice, and
considered it rather an achievement the first time I managed to pioneer
through all the intricacies of the passage from the Piazza San Marco
to the Ponte Rialto and back again. This famous bridge is a graceful
marble arch, of one span of 74 feet, across the Grand Canal. An elegant
marble balustrade protects each side, the space on the bridge being
divided into three footways by two covered arched or arcaded buildings
used as shabby little shops, which one would gladly see abolished,
being so little in keeping with the handsome character of the bridge.
Here at the Rialto there are also markets on either side of the canal,
for the sale of fruit and other things.
* * * * *
Situated on the Grand Canal, but nearer to the railway station, is the
Museo Correr, in which we found a collection of pictures, armour, and
curiosities, of no great extent, but said to be valuable. The Palazzo
Marcello (proprietor, Richetti) contains a quantity of ‘antiquities,’
curiosities, bronzes, and other things manufactured for sale, some of
them curiously designed.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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