Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The French and Spanish form the bulk of the visitors during August and
September, these months constituting, _par excellence_, what is called
the season, while during the winter months the English take possession.
In the winter months the hotel charges undergo great modification,
and _pension_ can then be had in some of the best hotels at 7 francs
per day.[45] It is noteworthy that _pension_ at Biarritz and Pau, and
elsewhere in the south of France, includes wine. House accommodation,
too, in the winter months is correspondingly cheap. The best months for
enjoying Biarritz, we were informed, are the months of April and May,
when the heat is sufficient but not oppressive. The month of July is
sometimes unbearably hot. A family who had been there during July told
us that they could hardly venture out in that month till late in the
evening; and if the sirocco prevailed, they were even obliged to close
the windows, the hot sand percolating through every crevice. The band
of music, I understood, plays only during the two months of the season,
and removes at its close, when the enclosure is dismantled.
* * * * *
But the great attractions of Biarritz consist in its beach, its rocks,
its grand seas, and in its capacities for good bathing. We were never
fortunate enough to witness a storm in the bay, although there was
occasionally enough of swell upon the water to show what a storm could
be. Our landlord, speaking of the appearance of a storm on the ocean,
described it as ‘terreeble;’ and no doubt it is, and not very safe,
too, as sometimes people are washed away by an unexpected dash and
sweep of the ocean. But a standing evidence of the force of the waves
is exhibited by the remains or ruins of the breakwater, begun in view
of here affording a port of refuge and pier. Regarding this scheme
Count Russell says (p. 13):—
‘Napoleon III. suggested it, meaning to connect by a breakwater several
of the detached rocks scattered on the north–western side of the Porte
Vieux, and thus to form a small harbour, only open to the north. A
clever engineer, M. Palaà, was entrusted with this almost superhuman
undertaking, but the only result has been, after years of labour and
more than one sacrifice of life, to accumulate a shapeless and useless
mass of ruins along the intended harbour. The breakwater (or what is
left of it) was built with concrete; artificial square blocks weighing
36 tons (some of them 48) were sunk by hundreds at random and just
where they liked to fall! But the tremendous surf has been playing with
them as if they were pebbles, and in 1868 one of them was carried right
over the pier (22 feet above low–water mark) like a toy or a feather!
For these and for financial reasons the works are now suspended. They
have already cost £120,000, and all to no purpose. In fact, nothing
human can resist such a sea as the Sea of Biscay, except, perhaps, at
St. Jean de Luz, where nature has half made a harbour.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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