Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The sea is by far too treacherous and violent to make boating safe, and
we seldom, if ever, saw pleasure–boats out, although they were lying in
the harbour.
Some isolated rocks stand out in the water, separated from the
mainland, with which, I fancy, they have at one time been connected.
They are rough, and rugged, and bare, and honeycombed, and even,
occasionally, altogether perforated by the water; bearing witness in
their haggard condition to the violence of the waves by which they are
continually assailed, undermined, broken up, and thrown down. It is,
indeed, very beautiful to see, during a swell, the water lashing the
rocks and dashing over in clouds of white spray, or sometimes through
the perforations or over and down the rocks in streams of white foam.
During the day we used to stand and observe the swell surging into the
large cavities formed by continual action, and tossed out again, as
if the rocks had said with Phineas, ‘Friend, thee isn’t wanted here;’
while the whole water around, nothing daunted, was boiling and excited,
dancing and glancing and sparkling in the sun as if in glee, or in
the spirit of fun and mischief. This, too, in calm weather. But at
night we used to hear the boom of the waves as they tumbled into these
caverns and were as promptly turned out again, as if it had been guns
firing—for which, indeed, at first we were inclined to mistake the
sound.
Unlike the Mediterranean Sea, the tide has the usual ebb and flow of
the Atlantic, consequently not only is the beach more interesting, but
the town is kept more healthy. The sands afford the usual occupation
and delight to children, but shells and seaweed are rare. A good many
jelly–fish are thrown up; some gelatinous animals of a large size
perhaps were octopi. We used often to sit by the beach and watch the
sea, especially under the Basque Rocks, where the waves, with the
slightest breath of wind, would come charging gallantly in, high and
crested, and turn gracefully over in long lines when they neared the
shore. Over the rocks the inhabitants would seem to have the odious
habit of running their drains or dirty water, both unsightly to the
eye and leaving disagreeable black pools below. This surely might be
remedied. It does create a drawback to this most enjoyable beach.
Equally objectionable, if not more so, is the practice, so offensive at
Cannes, of putting the outlets of the town drains close to each of the
bathing–places. The tide, no doubt, is such at Biarritz as to remove
the stuff carried down, but there could or should be no difficulty in
carrying the pipes away to some distance from parts where people enter
the water to bathe, and at all events in not making them so obnoxiously
near and prominent.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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