Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
however, when snow–covered, they cannot bear comparison with the Alps
as seen from Turin. But the view may be finer when the mountains are
snow–covered and there is a grand sunset, for which Pau is famed. The
mountains in the ruddy glow may then resemble the Bernese Alps, as seen
from Berne in a brilliant sunset. At Turin, as the mountains lie to the
west of the town, the sunset effect must be greatly lost.
* * * * *
The Chateau, which was the residence of the Princes of Bearne in former
times, and where Henry IV. of France was born in 1553, is well worthy
of inspection, and, of course, any stranger coming to Pau pays it a
visit. Three bridges connect it with the town, and at one time it
was doubtless a place of strength. Entering on one side through what
appears to be a modern screen of three open slender arches embellished
by carved work (seemingly rather too delicate for a warlike place), and
passing the sentinel, the visitor is at once in the court–yard, the
remaining three sides of the nearly square yard forming the castle,
pierced by decorated windows. The walls are of great thickness, giving
the idea of massive strength and solidity. In some of the rooms the
walls are covered with tapestry, and in parts the tapestry is a
close imitation in worsted of paintings in oil—a mistake in art, I
think. The ceilings are bold in design, without being either fine
or remarkable. The old beds are curious high boxes of carved oak,
requiring steps to enable the occupants to get up into them. A lower
modern carved bed in one of the rooms, devoid of the canopy of the old
ones, seemed vastly preferable. One of the bedrooms was hung with silk
of the time of Madame de Maintenon, and, as we understood, manufactured
under her superintendence. The most interesting object in the castle
was the cradle of Henry IV., made of a large tortoise shell. There is
a statue of the great monarch in the grounds, and in the country round
about places exist with which he was associated; and, indeed, Pau and
its neighbourhood is a place of great historical interest.
A public park closely adjoins the Chateau. It is filled with lofty
trees, and continues for a long stretch by the banks of the Gave on a
rising ground, through which and under the trees walks have been formed
and seats placed, whence charming views of the river and mountains are
had. The band plays during the season sometimes in the park and at
other times in the Place Royale.
* * * * *
The environs of Pau are said to be beautiful, but we had not much
opportunity of exploring them. Mr. Inglis (the traveller), in a passage
quoted by Dr. Taylor, says:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account