Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
‘The Gave serpentines through the charming undulating country that
surrounds the town. Grain, meadows, and vines diversify the scenery,
and innumerable country–houses are everywhere scattered around. Nothing
can exceed the beauty of the promenades in the neighbourhood of Pau.
Some lie alongside the Gave, others along the banks of the smaller
river.’
The road to Bordeaux and the other roads out of Pau seem to be all
lined with regimental rows of poplars, shady perhaps in sunshine, but
stiff. Some neat villas in nicely–planted gardens in the outskirts of
the town—delightful retreats—are let furnished. I had the pleasure of
meeting a very old Scotch friend, who, after having tried many places,
has found the climate of Pau to be most suitable, and has accordingly
built just out of town an elegant villa for permanent residence.
There are, I believe, many excellent excursions from Pau, such as
a drive to Lourdes, 25 miles distant—a long day’s work for the
horses there and back, but, I was told and can readily believe, most
enjoyable. In the summer–time, everybody who can, escapes to the
mountains, where so many charming spots, including Eaux–Chaudes and
Eaux–Bonnes, are to be found.
We paid a visit to the cemetery, which lies back from the Place
d’Armes, and quite out of town, the Protestant ground being, as
customary, separate from the Roman Catholic. There are throughout many
monuments, including one to Marshal Bosquet, whose name is familiar to
us in connection with the Crimean War. After the war he spent his last
years in Pau, his native place. One monument to the memory of a Russian
lady, representing her in the act of kneeling and praying, in very rich
attire, is of white marble, and has no doubt been executed in Italy.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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