Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
I have already, in mentioning our first visit to the Riviera, taken
note of Marseilles. We were glad to meet some old Scotch friends
unexpectedly at the Hotel Noailles. The weather was cold, which of
itself would have rendered it advisable to push on; so, after a drive
through the town next day, we left for Hyères, about fifty miles
distant, by the 1.20 train, but found by another of those changes
made just a few days previously, we could only book to Toulon, the
train in connection from Toulon to Hyères by a branch line having been
discontinued, although the Hyères season was just commencing—a rather
odd way of accommodating the coming visitors. On arrival at Toulon, we
had accordingly upwards of three hours before a train would start for
Hyères, and we availed ourselves of the time to explore a little about
this noted naval station.
The town of Toulon itself is uninteresting; its streets are dirty
and narrow, the houses high. Near the railway station the ground is
more open and the houses more modern. Passing them, we soon came upon
the fortifications which surround the town, but retracing our steps,
walked down to the docks and along the public quay. There are two
large docks communicating with each other—the Port Marchand and the
Port Militaire. The latter is one of the great arsenals of France;
but we could not see it, an order of admission being required, only
procurable in the morning. It extends to 35 acres and is said to be
capable of receiving 200 ships of the line. The other dock is probably
of about the same extent. Both docks are highly fortified. On looking
from the quay, we saw many of the old men–of–war laid up like invalids,
dismasted and dismantled and put under cover, apparently as hospital
ships. At one time convicts were kept in some of them. A little beyond,
some serviceable men–of–war lay, and the quays were crowded with boats
which, with men and officers, were passing to and fro, making it a
lively, gay scene. Some civilians were evidently going out in the
boats to see the ships or their friends on board. A bronze statue has
been erected upon the public quay, to the memory of the many eminent
men who have been connected by birth or otherwise with Toulon and its
history, and whose names are engraved on the sides. After our stroll,
we were glad to return and have, in the railway station refreshment
room, dinner (supplied at 3½ francs a head, the usual station tariff),
and at 6.50 left in the dark for Hyères, arriving at eight o’clock.
Nine omnibuses in a semicircle were waiting the arrival of the train,
but we were the only passengers requiring conveyance. We took that of
the Hotel d’Orient, recommended in Bradshaw and also by Murray for its
beautiful situation. It is a comfortable hotel, the hotelkeeper is
attentive, and the situation is more sheltered from the mistral than
others; but it seems a mistake to speak of it as ‘beautiful,’ as any
view it may have commanded at one time is shut out by the trees of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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