Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
garden on the opposite side of the road. The Hotel des Îles d’Or is the
principal hotel in Hyères. It commands a fine view, but has a west or
south–west exposure. The Hesperides Hotel is near to it. This and the
Hotel des Ambassadeurs, in the centre of the small town, are considered
comfortable and more moderate.
* * * * *
Hyères is considered less costly than any of the other important
places in the Riviera, regarding it as within the Riviera, which
perhaps, strictly speaking, it is not. I believe it may be considered
to be about 2 francs per day less than Mentone for corresponding
accommodation and pension, and in all probability the reason for this
is that it is not usually thought so attractive. The town itself is
most uninviting. The original and older part of it, lying upon the hill
slope, is so very dirty that I could not bring myself to visit it a
second time. The drains there run down the middle of the streets, and
no regard seems to be paid to cleanliness. It speaks well, doubtless,
for its healthiness, that the inhabitants can survive its pestilential
odours. The newer part of the town consists mainly of a long street,
in which most of the hotels are, and a few poor shops, some of which
were not, at this early period of the winter, opened. The Rue des
Palmiers, in which the English church is situated, is the best street.
It is flanked by gardens attached to the houses, and by a row of palm
trees on each side, which grow better in Hyères than they do in some
other parts where they are more exposed to dust and sea air. This Rue
has quite the look of a retired row in the suburbs of a large city.
Outside the town, which is altogether very small, there are a number
of pretty villas. Behind the town a hill rises steeply to a height of
650 feet, whereon the château, an old castle, stands. The view from
this hill is very fine, looking down upon the plains below, and the
surrounding mountains, and the Mediterranean three miles off—the long,
low, but picturesque islands of Hyères, called the Îles d’Or, the
nearest being to appearance about two to three miles from the shore, or
six miles off, but as distance on water is deceptive, probably rather
more. These islands, formerly productive, now barren, but said to be
salubrious, are four in number, the largest being four miles long by
two miles broad, and (speaking from distant recollection of a visit to
Ireland) slightly resembling from Hyères, though larger, Spike Island
at Queenstown, Cork.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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