Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
One misses at the foreign railways the fee–expecting, bustling English
guard. There is such a person, but he is not the important functionary
he makes himself at home, where he is seen going about as if all the
carriages belonged to him. Abroad, the guard arrives not or retreats
until the train is about to start, and the first and perhaps the only
time he makes his appearance is probably after proceeding a long way on
the journey; and when the train is in full motion, nervous passengers
are suddenly alarmed by seeing a man creeping along the outside of the
carriage and popping his head in at the window, or opening the door to
see the billets, which are seldom examined before starting. He silently
gives the tickets a clip, and disappears, perhaps to reappear after
another 50 miles for another examination and another clip, the want of
inspection before starting removing a safeguard which exists in England
against proceeding in the wrong train. But if the guard render himself
invisible, he does not expect, as in England, to be fee’d for making
needless announcements, or proffering superfluous information, and so
the imposition is saved.
* * * * *
As a general rule, the Continental railway carriages are superior in
comfort to our own, although latterly improvement has been made in
this direction on some of the English lines. On most of the foreign
lines, the second–class carriages are, or were, equal to our first,
and practically almost the only difference between first and second
consists in the number of passengers which they take, the first
class taking eight in each compartment, and the second ten. In the
line between Cette and Bayonne, and possibly on other lines, the
second–class carriages are not so good, and are more like our own, and
do not possess that with which those on other lines are fitted up—a
netting overhead similar to what is placed in our first–class carriages
for the reception of small things; hooks are substituted. Sometimes one
gets into the older class of carriage, as we did once between Arles and
Marseilles, where the compartments are uncomfortably narrow.
In France, it seems quite the rule to crowd the carriages to the
utmost. I never learnt the reason, but have imagined that a Government
duty or tax is levied on every carriage used. If so, it is highly
desirable that this tax should be removed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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