With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908Matthews, Franklin
History
With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908
Matthews, Franklin
United States. Navy. Atlantic Fleet -- Cruise, 1907-1909
When the ships anchored in four lines opposite the central part of the
city, the Brazilian ships, about a dozen of them, were anchored inside.
Pratique was granted within half an hour of the time of the anchoring,
which required some slow manoeuvring in order to reach the exact
positions.
No official calls were made that night because it was well after 5
o'clock when the last anchor was down, and it was Sunday. The populace
thronged the waterfront, in some places ten deep, until after dark, and
then the Brazilian ships illuminated in honor of the fleet. Fireworks
were set off from the hilltops. Still the people stayed on the
waterfront. Up to midnight they could be seen in thousands. They were
there when daylight came; if not the same ones, then a fresh relay. From
that day on until the ships left there never was an hour when the
waterfront, especially of the city proper, was not thronged with the
people looking at the ships.
The far famed Bay of Rio! What shall be said about it? Travellers and
guide books have told of its beauties without ceasing. Every
well-informed person knows that it is regarded as the finest in the
world, that even Naples is dwarfed in these descriptions in comparison.
It is worth while to recount its glories again, especially as it
revealed itself to naval men.
The writer knows of no better naval twist to give to such a description
than was written by Herman Melville, who entered this bay on the United
States frigate United States way back in 1843, and who has described the
scene in his fascinating book "White Jacket." Nature is still the same.
Old Sugar Loaf, the liberty capped Corcovado, literally the hunchback,
the Organ Mountains and all the other peaks still rear their heads as
they did then and encircle Rio. Here is what Melville wrote from a
naval standpoint:
"Talk not of Bahia de Todos os Santos, the Bay of All Saints, for though
that be a glorious haven, yet Rio is the Bay of all Rivers, the Bay of
all Delights, the Bay of all Beauties. From circumjacent hillsides
untiring summer hangs perpetually in terraces of vivid verdure, and
embossed with old mosses convent and castle nestle in valley and glen.
"All around deep inlets run into the green mountain land, and overhung
with wild highlands more resemble Loch Katrine than Lake Leman, yet here
in Rio both the loch and the lake are but two wild flowers in a prospect
that is almost unlimited. For behold, far away and away stretches the
broad blue of the water to yonder soft swelling hills of light green,
backed by the purple pinnacles and pipes of the grand Organ Mountains
fitly so-called, for in thunder time they roll cannonades down the bay,
drowning the blended bass of all the cathedrals in Rio.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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