Chowni--Srinagur--Wooden Bathing-houses--Baboo Mohas Chander--Our Future Domicile--‘Me come Up’--Our Shikarrah--Summud Shah, the Shawl-merchant--Ancient Temples--The Manufacture of Cashmere Shawls--Dinner with the Maharajah--A Nautch--The Maharajah’s ‘Hookem’--Lord Mayo’s Fête at Agra--Uninvited Guests--Rising of the Lake--The Poplar Avenue--The Pariah Dog--Cause of the Flood 187 CHAPTER XI. VALLEY OF THE SCIND. Journey to the Nishat Bagh--Floating Gardens--Superfine Joe--Isle of Chenars--Inscription--Nightingales--Sudden Storm--Sunbul--An Irishman’s Dinner--The Guardian of the Lake--Ganderbul--Noonur--Engagement of a Shikarree--An Irishman losing his ‘Presence of Mind’--A Holy Man--Crossing a Rickety Bridge--Valley of the Scind--Bears 207 CHAPTER XII. THE RESIDENT OF CASHMERE. Gond--Officer of the Connaught Rangers--A State Prisoner-- Our Gascon Captain--Silvertail--M’Kay on Eastern Mountain Scenery--The Walloor Lake--Palhallan--Our Chokedar--Taken for Wandering Jugglers--Vale of Gulmurg--Our Camping-ground--A Favourite Excursion--Hospitality of the Resident of Cashmere--Polly the Pug--Calling the Mares home--Hindoos and Animal Suffering--Effects of Campaigning on Servants 227 CHAPTER XIII. TRAVELLING IN CASHMERE. Visit to Islamabad--Avantipore--Kunbul--Pitching our Camp--Travelling Camp Fashion--Palace of Sirkari Bagh--Anut Nag, the Sacred Spring--Shawl Manufactory--Visit to the Garden at Atchibul--Irish Acuteness--Pleasure-garden--Picnic in the Ruins of Martund--Sacred Spring of the Bowun--A Pundit eager for Backsheesh--Expedition to the Lolab--Review of the Maharajah’s Troops 249 CHAPTER XIV. FAREWELL TO CASHMERE. Last Wanderings in Cashmere--Lalpari--Return to Murree--A Murree Cart--Return to Military Life--Fever in the Regiment--Death of M’Kay--Ordered to Agra--Intelligence of Elephants--Goats--Regimental Pets--A Drunken old Goat--Hunting Rebels--The Value of a Flogging--Sapient Jackdaws--Painful Tidings--Brigadier Nicholson--English Stores--Lahore--Flight of Locusts--Flocks of Geese 271 CHAPTER XV. THE HIMALAYAS. Agra--Letter-writers in Bazaar--A Dilemma--The Rajah of Ulwar--The Taj-Mahal--Deserted City of Palaces--Futtehpore Sekri--Railway Travelling--The Sewallic Range--The Himalayas--The Snowy Range--Dehra--The Training Season--Cholera--Proclaiming Banns of Marriage--Presages of a Storm 291