With the Empress Dowager of ChinaCarl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
History
With the Empress Dowager of China
Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
China -- Court and courtiers; Cixi, Empress dowager of China, 1835-1908; Empresses -- China -- Biography
I lunched generally with the Ladies, with the charming young Empress as
gracious hostess, and dined at night at Her Majesty’s table. Two huge
copper braziers had now been placed in the Throne-room, and though so
picturesque with the blue flames curling above their openings in the
top, they made but little impression upon the temperature of this lofty
room. The curtains over the immense doors that opened on the courts
were constantly being raised for the passage of some eunuch, and it was
very drafty. But one could at least warm one’s hands by the braziers,
and they were so beautiful and picturesque, I was reconciled to being a
little cold; besides, I soon became accustomed to the temperature. The
Chinese Ladies wear heavy fur-lined dresses in the house, and cannot
stand the rooms very warm.
At dinner, a large carpet was now placed under the table, which was an
improvement over the cold marble floors. This was done for my comfort,
for the Chinese Ladies wear two-inch-thick cork soles to their
fur-lined shoes. Down the center of the table, during the winter, there
were several silver chafing-dishes, with burning charcoal beneath their
steaming contents. Soups, vegetables, and meat stews were thus kept
boiling hot on the table. One night I suggested to one of the eunuchs
to place the claret-bottle near the fire before serving it, that the
chill might be taken off. One very cold day, soon after, the eunuch
brought in a large teapot, and began pouring the boiling claret out
of this! The Chinese drink their wines hot, and he thought he would
improve on my suggestion of “taking off the chill,” and he naïvely
remarked “it was better for me to drink it thus on such a cold day!”
When there was no Theater, and it became too dark to paint, I would
join the young Empress and Ladies in their sitting-room at the left of
Her Majesty’s Throne-room and there await dinner. The young Empress
would then teach me Chinese. She was very particular about my accent
and seemed to take a real interest in my progress. The Chinese language
is very difficult for a beginner, even for one who has a good ear,
for the “tone” or inflection with which you pronounce the word may
change its meaning. Sometimes one after the other of the Princesses
would repeat the same word in different tones and make me repeat it
and then give the meaning of each tone. They would sometimes make puns
on words, or give me a string of difficult words for the accent and to
improve my enunciation, as the French teach the children, “Trois gros
rats dans trois gros trous.” When I would finally get quite tangled
up with these words I would retaliate with “Peter Piper picked a peck
of pickled peppers.” This would end the lesson for that day, for they
would all try to say it and get so hilarious that there was no effort
at further study, and dinner would be announced in the midst of the fun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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