With the Empress Dowager of ChinaCarl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
History
With the Empress Dowager of China
Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
China -- Court and courtiers; Cixi, Empress dowager of China, 1835-1908; Empresses -- China -- Biography
The meals at the Palace were all of the most lavish description,
twenty or thirty dishes being placed upon the table at the beginning
of the meal, while macaroni, rice, and a few other things were served
from a side table. The Chinese are passed masters in the culinary
art, and the delicacies seen at good Chinese tables are fit for a
repast of Lucullus. Sharks’ fins, deers’ sinews, birds’ tongues,
rare fish, bird’s-nest soups, fish brains, shrimps’ eggs, and many
other extraordinary dishes make up the every-day menu. No one can
cook goose, duck, and in fact all fowls and game, to such perfection
as the Chinese. Their soups are of a delicacy and flavor quite
unequaled. Their breads and cakes seem to the foreigner, at first, the
least delectable of their viands; their bread particularly, which is
steamed instead of baked, is not tempting; but when you get over or
rather through the raw-looking outside, with its five cochineal spots
surmounting its pyramidal form, it is very sweet and wholesome. It is
made of gray flour, as the Chinese do not believe in whitening the
flour as we do. They make delicious creams, as to consistency; and
these and their sweets generally are much esteemed by the foreigners.
At the Palace the food is served in tall dishes of painted Chinese
porcelain, and everything is placed upon the table at once--soups,
roast, sweets, all except the rice and macaroni. These latter dishes
the Chinese eat boiling hot, and they are kept on chafing-dishes
until served. Each person has a bowl, a small saucer, and a pair of
chop-sticks. A small square of very soft cloth is used as a napkin.
There is never any salt upon the table. The small saucer at the side
of each guest contains a very salty sauce; if extra salt is needed,
this sauce is used. The Chinese consider powdered salt too coarse for
seasoning food after it is cooked!
They rarely drink at meals, and when they do, only tiny cups, about the
size of a liqueur-glass, of heated wine. This is poured out of silver
teapots, and is kept hot by being placed in receptacles containing
boiling water. Their wines are more like liqueurs than ours; they
are generally distilled with flowers and herbs and have a delightful
“bouquet.” Some of these wines have most poetic names, such as “Dew
from the Early Morning Rose,” and “Drops from the Hands of Buddha.” The
Chinese never drink cold water, nor do they take tea at meals. For me,
being a foreigner, champagne was always provided, as well as claret or
Burgundy. The Chinese do not drink coffee. After leaving the table,
they take tea without milk or sugar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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