With the Harmony to Labrador: Notes of a visit to the Moravian mission stations on the north-east coast of LabradorLa Trobe, Benjamin
History
With the Harmony to Labrador: Notes of a visit to the Moravian mission stations on the north-east coast of Labrador
La Trobe, Benjamin
Indians of North America -- Missions; Inuit -- Missions; Labrador (N.L.) -- Description and travel; Moravian Indians -- Missions
Let us continue our visits to the inhabited houses, one next the
other, in an irregular row. Outside them the children are playing
about and seem to enjoy life. Here and there one may see a sledge, or
a kayak, the skin-covered boat such as is used, by the men. The larger
umiak, or women's boat, is now scarcely met with in Labrador. There
are one or two light wooden skeleton frames of kayaks, but most are
tightly covered with white smooth skins, cleverly sewn together by the
women. Look at this one lying on the grass; it is about fifteen feet
long, but you can lift the end of it quite easily. The owner paddled
home in it this morning from his fishing-place at the head of the
fjord, and sold fifty-two trout off the top of it to the captain, as
he passed the "Harmony." His bone-pointed harpoon and a hook with a
long handle are strapped on top of the canoe. Beside it lies his
paddle, which the Eskimo wields so deftly and silently that even a
seal may fail to detect his swift approach. Its blades at both ends
are beautifully finished off with bone. I see his gun is carelessly
left in the round man-hole in which he sits when afloat. It may be
loaded; I hope the children will let it alone.
Passing Daniel's empty hut, for he and his family are away fishing, we
call on Ikkaujak and Sakkearak (now John and Ernestine), and then on
Matthew and his wife Verona, who not long ago were known as Swanzi and
Akkusane. Matthew is interested to show and explain the weapons of the
chase. His racket-shaped snow-shoes are the shortest I ever saw.
Longer ones, unless like the Norwegian skydder, would be unpractical
among these mountains. His harpoons hang on the wall next his gun. The
blunt one, pointed with a walrus tooth, is used in the body of a seal,
but the iron-pointed one is needed when the animal's head alone is
above the water or the ice. Both are cleverly put together with wood,
bone, and thongs, so arranged that when necessary head and haft easily
come apart.
Some of these Ramah Eskimoes are perhaps 5 ft. 10 in. in height, and
most of them look robust and strong; but little Paul's door is very
low, and I must bend double to enter his hut. His heathen name was
Simigak and his wife's Ikkinek when they came from Nachvak in 1881. He
is not at home, but his Adolfine gives us a welcome in Eskimo fashion.
There is a stove in the corner, and on it a pot with some pieces of
salmon in it. A few trout are strung up to the roof. I notice a clock
in the corner, but am told that it is broken. Perhaps Paul can mend
it; at any rate, while I was at Hopedale some Newfoundland fishermen
entrusted their ship clock to an Eskimo for repairs.
The last hut in the village is Frederick's. Some of his goods are
here, but most are in the tent where we found his wife and family. A
few pictures are pasted on his walls. Many houses at other stations
are almost papered with pages from the _Graphic_ and _Illustrated
London News_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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