With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
These tents of ours, five in number, must not be confounded with the
ones we had used at Mecca. They belonged to a Persian _moghavem_
attached to the Syrian caravan, and were made of white canvas lined on
the inside with a particular kind of red cloth that goes by the name of
_shelleh_. Supported on nine poles covered with the same material, they
were so constructed that any one of the sides could be converted at
will into the front entrance, and that doors could be opened wherever
and whenever needed. By this means it was possible to keep the interior
relatively cool.
The floor of our withdrawing-tent was spread with Persian rugs, and
at the further end facing the doorway was a downy _mokhata_ or pillow
divan. To this snug abode I returned, after I had washed my hands and
feet in a tent close by, to find that the servants, following the
hospitable custom of the Bedouins, had already laid the cloth for
supper. My hosts were not present; having dined, they were fast asleep
in their own tents.
It is not considered seemly in the East for inferiors to sit down
in the presence of their superiors, nor do the latter ever so far
forget their superiority as to stand up in welcoming a guest of lower
rank. The act of rising is a recognition of equality, and not a mere
greeting. Thus, when “I fell down to supper” (as the late Shah was
fond of saying in the diary of his European tour) I was in etiquette
bound to accept the homage of Sheykh Eissa and Seyyid ’Alí’, who were
standing up. But their attitude of docile humility so tickled my sense
of the ridiculous that I raised my head after a few minutes, and said:
“Ah, are you there? _Bismillah_, sit down ... _Yá-Allah!_”
The invitation was certainly a breach of social custom on my part,
inasmuch as I was the master--a breach, however, for which the
exclamation of _yá-Allah_, which is an acknowledged substitute for
rising, made ample amends in my humble opinion. With an equal contempt
for formality, or finding the silence oppressive beyond endurance, I
then gave them permission to talk. If I refrained from inviting them to
partake of the savoury dishes of camel’s flesh prepared for me, it was
simply because I knew that they had already broken their fast.
The conversation fell on the subject of the Bedouins. The Sheykh,
having told me a story of a blood-feud between two clans, untied a
little parcel which he was in the habit of carrying about with him,
and took out three steel dice loosely threaded on wire and inscribed
with talismanic characters, together with a brass disk divided into
squares and covered all over with hieroglyphics. “By means of these two
things,” said he (while Seyyid ’Alí tipped me a wink of incredulity),
“I can foretell the future.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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