With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
With these thoughts in my mind, I hurried to our tents to read a few
chapters of the Kurán and to say the prescribed prayers, before setting
out again to witness the Sheríf’s procession and attend the Kazi’s
sermon. This day, the 9th of the moon, was a day of fasting; but a good
many pilgrims found pretexts for breaking their fasts, and I, being
worn out after the long journey of the preceding day and the exciting
vigil of the night, was among the number. Having eaten my fill, I
dropped fast asleep, to be awakened about three o’clock by the firing
of guns. Our party at once left the tents, giving full instructions to
the servants to have everything in readiness for the rush from Arafat
at sundown.
[Illustration: PERSIAN PILGRIMS FROM TABRIZ, HAVING TEA ON BOARD THE
STEAMER.]
Then out once more into the plain, weltering in the sunshine, to
stand, bare-headed and with naked feet, until the sun should sink
behind the horizon....
The Egyptian Mahmil had already passed on to its appointed place on the
mountainside; but, fortunately, we were not too late to see the passing
of its Syrian rival which, draped in its covering of gold and green,
now threaded its way across the plain. The Mahmil headed by a dozen
led horses of the purest Arabian strain, all richly caparisoned with
embroidered cashmere shawls, was surrounded by a squadron of horsemen
and camel-riders; while immediately in front of the prancing Arabs,
came heralds in white headgear and red coats, bearing silver batons in
their hands. And thus the green badge of Syria moved on to its allotted
place on the skirts of the Mountain of Mercy.
Hardly had it reached its destination, than the band of the Sherífian
procession crashed out a march: and soon afterwards the cavalcade
drew near. A score or two of men on foot cleared the course, making
vigorous use of the long staves they carried in their hands. A number
of mace-bearers, who came next, were followed in turn by a regiment
of Sherífian cavalry, barbarously dressed and gallantly mounted, each
man prepossessing the spectator in his favour. Even more popular was
the appearance of the magnificent body of men which next excited our
admiration. It was a staff of Arab chieftains, the pick of the country,
riding on mettlesome thoroughbreds, and combining in their persons
all the chivalry and the dash of their indomitable race. Then a blaze
of crimson-red--the Sherífian state colour: this struck my eye on the
flowing saddle-cloths of the led horses of His Holiness, the Sheríf of
Mecca, who, meekly riding on a white mule, quite alone in the line, was
clad, like the poorest of the poor among the pilgrims, in Ihrám. Behind
him walked his courtiers and the members of his Household, while a
crowd of Bedouin Sheykhs on horseback or on camels brought up the rear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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