With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
When the cavalcade was stationed near the Mahmils, guns were fired
again and again to announce that the sermon was about to begin. Then,
amid the sighs and sobs and tears of that vast congregation, the Kazi
of Mecca, sitting on a dromedary, began to preach, or (perhaps more
correctly) to pray. Speaking in Arabic verse, each line being repeated
about a dozen times by the pilgrims, he intoned the rhythmic psalm in a
deep but ringing voice. The opening passages ran as follows:--
Thou, O Lord, no mate possessest:
Thou, in truth, the King of kings!
I am here for Thee--for Thee:
I am here with praise for Thee.
Thou no compeer hast, O Allah!
Nights are darkened at Thy command:
Stars are shining in obedience:
Angels praise Thee round Thy Throne.
Prophets come at Thy beck and call:
The sun goes round to sing Thy praises:
Thou art holy and Thy name is holy:
Thou art merciful, magnanimous, and compassionate!
* * * * *
May the end of our life come with heavenly blessing!
May the angels of punishment pass by from our doors!
We glorify and praise Thee, Lord!
May the angels of mercy show their grace to us!
May our humble supplications be acceptable to Thee!
We glorify and praise Thee, Lord!
At first the pilgrims held their breath, afraid of missing a word; but
as the prayers and psalms and exhortations proceeded, their enthusiasm
grew more and more unrestrained. No longer content with repeating the
Kazi’s words, line by line, they burst into tears, and from tears
into shrieks. They beat their breasts, sobbing from sheer excess of
joy; they could be seen, on the plain, whirling round and round, as
they sang the Labbaik. Some swooned, partly from delirium of religious
emotion, and partly from the effect of the sun’s excessive heat. One
moment--and your blood seemed to boil and your brain to swim in liquid
fire; then came relief: you were drenched in sweat, reduced to liquid
that alternately evaporated and gushed out of every pore. I was wedged
so tight in a compact mass of pilgrims, within a stone’s throw of the
preacher, that there was no chance of my reaching the haven of my one
desire--the cooling spring where I had slaked my thirst at noonday. And
so one hour wore on.
What had happened among the pilgrims out there in the dancing glare of
the sunlit plain, I cannot say; but the least said about the reports
of the behaviour of some of them, the better. No good purpose can be
served by emphasising the exceptional and parading the obscene. Where
I stood, longing for the sound of running water, there, at least, the
solemnity and the fervour of the congregation were of a sort to take
one’s reason captive, overcoming, by sheer repetition of appeal, even
the craving I had to swill my gullet with a draught of water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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