With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
Amongst the varied and manifold impressions of my long and intimate
connection with the Mohammedan world none is more lively and more
interesting than my experiences with the Hajees, the dear, pious and
good-natured companions on many of my wanderings in Moslem Asia. We in
Europe can hardly have an idea of the zeal and delight which animate
the pilgrim to the holy places of Arabia, not only during his sojourn
in Mekka and Medina, not only whilst making the Tawaf (procession
round the Kaaba), not only during the excursion to the valley of Mina,
where the exclamation of “Lebeitk yá Allah” rends the air round the
Arafat--but long before he has started on his arduous and formerly
very dangerous journey to the birthplace of Islam. The Hadj, being one
of the four fundamental commands of Islam, is looked upon by every
true believer as a religious duty the fulfilment of which is always
before his eyes, and if prevented by want of means or by infirmity he
will strive to find a Wekil (representative), whom he provides with
necessary funds to undertake the journey and to pray in his name at
the Kaaba, and when the Wekil has returned he hands over the Ihram (a
shirt-like dress in which the pilgrimage is performed) to his sender
who will use it as his shroud, and appear before the Almighty in
the garb used on the Hadj. The further the Moslem lives from Arabia
the greater becomes the passion to visit the holy places of his
religion, and if there was a country in which the desire to fulfil
this holy command was most fervently cultivated and executed, it was
decidedly Central Asia and Eastern Turkestan, where nearly two-thirds
of the pilgrims formerly perished, partly in consequence of epidemics
and inclemency of weather, partly also at the hands of robbers or
through thirst in the desert. And yet these Turk or Tartar Hadjees
often disregard all dangers and perils of a long journey, and begin
to economise the money necessary for travelling expenses many years
before they have set out, for a man destitute of means is not allowed
to undertake the Hadj, the same prohibition exists also for a man who
is not bodily strong enough, or who has to provide for a family left
back at home. It is true, in accordance with the saying “Hem ziaret hem
tidjaret” (Pilgrimage and Business together), there are people, who
connect trade with religion, but their devotion is often criticised,
whereas the pure religious intention meets everywhere with the greatest
praise and veneration, and a successfully accomplished visit to the
holy places of Arabia makes a Mohammedan respected not only in his
community but also in the outlying districts of his country. On his
return journey from Mekka and Medina the Hajee gets an official
reception all along his route. He is met by young and old, by rich and
poor, everybody tries to rub his eyes or his cheeks to the dress of the
man, in order to catch an atom of the dust coming from the Kaaba or
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