With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
Now, my ihrám, which I had bought at Suez, consisted of two thin
woollen wrappers and a pair of sandals. One wrapper was tied about the
middle and allowed to fall all round to the ankles, while the other
was thrown over the shoulders, leaving my head and the forearms bare.
Both wrappers were spotlessly white, and had neither seam nor hem. The
sandal was a kind of shoe, consisting of a sole fastened to the foot by
means of a tie which passed between the large toe and the first toe of
the foot; it left uncovered both the instep and the heel. This sacred
habit was worn by all pilgrims during the four days preceding the Hájj
Day. While they have it on they must neither hunt nor fowl, though they
are allowed to fish--a doubtful privilege in a dry land. This precept,
according to Ahmad Ebn Yûsuf, is so strictly observed that nothing will
induce pilgrims to kill so much as a flea. We are told by Al Beidáwí,
however, that there are some noxious animals that they have permission
to kill during the pilgrimage, such animals, for instance, as kites,
ravens, scorpions, mice, and dogs given to bite. Pilgrims must keep
a constant watch over their words and their actions so long as they
wear the sacred habit. Not a single abusive word must be uttered; all
obscene discourse and all converse with women must be avoided; and not
a single woman’s face must be seen, save that of a wife, a sister, or a
cousin-german, _i.e._, a sister’s or a brother’s daughter. The men, as
I have said, must now doff their sewn clothes and must keep both their
faces and their heads uncovered; but the woman must be, as it were,
hermetically sealed in their stitched cloaks and veils. The only part
of their bodies that they have the right to expose, if they like, is
the palms of their hands. For the rest, they must not travel alone, but
must be accompanied by a man who may lawfully see them unveiled.
Poor pilgrims! They suffered from right and left. First came the
blood-suckers’ passport picnic. Here the pilgrim was plagued to death
with questions that the most cursory perusal of his safe-conduct had
rendered unnecessary. “Where do you come from? When did you leave? How
did you get here? What are your intentions? Why this? How that? When
the other?” The poorer pilgrims complained that they were positively
fleeced on the most frivolous pretexts. “Your passport is not properly
written; you must pay forty-eight piastres,” and so on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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