With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
saying: “O Lord of this sacred relic, I flee to Thee and to ‘Thy right
hand on earth’ from all want and also from all infidelity.”
In this, the first circuit or “shaut,” we used the step called
“harvaleh,” walking briskly and shrugging the shoulders up and down,
and we adopted the same gait on the second and third “ashwat” (plural
form of “shaut”). But, in performing the remaining four circuits, a
more grave and stately tread was assumed according to the custom.
This ordinary eastern walk is called “teamol” and combines dignity
of demeanour with leisure of pace; it is a contemplative fashion of
walking, what the French would call _recueilli_, and is admirably
suited to a pilgrim’s devotional stroll round the House of God. On the
other hand, the reformer who should wish to introduce the go-ahead
civilisation of the West could not begin better than by levying a
prohibitive tax on the “teamol.” Sale records the tradition that this
sevenfold compassing of the Ka’bah was ordered by Muhammad, “that his
followers might show themselves strong and active, to cut off the hopes
of the infidels, who gave out that the immoderate heats of Medina had
rendered them weak.” A second tradition is that the circular motion
represents the orbicular motion of the heavenly bodies; a third, that
it is meant to symbolise the Egyptian wheels, those hieroglyphics
of the instability of human fortune; and a fourth, that it arose
from a custom among the Pagan Arabs, who, if they wished to humble
themselves, were wont to walk seven times round the person or persons
whom they delighted to exalt. Anyhow, the compassing of the Ka’bah,
be its origin what it may, is held by the Muhammadans to be an act of
self-sacrifice from man to God. I was much struck by the fact that
the victims of cholera and of other diseases were borne round the
sacred precincts in rude wooden coffins by their friends, who cried out
in tones of lamentation, “Yá-Allah! Yá-Allah!” It was an impressive
funeral procession, and is said to relieve the pressure of the grave,
and to insure to the corpse a safe and a speedy entrance into Paradise.
The Tewaff is brought to a close by a reverential visit to the tomb
of Abraham, which faces the door of the House. It is an open pavilion
resting on four pillars, and crowned with a crescented cupola.
There my guide and I, taking up our position on the thither side of
the tomb which was thus placed between ourselves and the House of God,
prostrated ourselves twice, saying our morning prayers the while; and
then, sitting on our hips, we raised our hands to the sky and said with
closed eyes:
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