Tom knew that the cutter would never get through the breakers. There
was not the tenth part of the tenth part of a chance of it; therefore
he flung off his coat and kicked off his shoes, so as to be in
readiness when the time should come. There was not much of the raging
and the lashing of the surf to be seen from the sea. Now and then a
spit of foamy water would shoot high up into the air from the recoil
of the waters on the hard sand, but they could not tell what the full
wrath and roaring of the great breakers were until they had gotten
fairly in amongst them.
Jack did all that a man could do to get that boat to the beach. He
tried rather to keep it off than to urge it too rapidly toward the
shore. He did his work well, for he had brought the cutter through the
first line of breakers, and into the second—but he got her no further.
A monstrous wave, fully twelve feet high, a solid mountain of green
water, came rushing toward them, its crest growing sharper and sharper,
and seeming to mount higher and higher as it swept toward the shore.
“Pull for your lives!” roared Jack, in a voice of thunder. But it was
no use, for the next instant the breaker was on them. For a moment
Tom had a feeling of spinning toward the shore, with the green water
towering ten feet above him; then it arched slowly over, there was a
crash and a roar, and he was struggling in a whirling, watery blindness.
Over and over he rolled, grasping at the sand every now and then, but
all the time feeling himself as helpless as a rat in the tumultuous
swirling of the water. Presently he felt himself being sucked out
again. Faster and faster he went, as the undertow gathered force in its
rush. For a moment he gained his feet, and bore with all his strength
against the outgoing water. The sand slid from beneath his heels,
till he must have sunk three inches into it. For an instant he had a
half-blinded vision of Jack Baldwin, fifteen or twenty feet nearer to
the shore than himself. Then came another crashing roar, and he was
whirled over and over and round and round, like a feather in the water.
A great feeling of utter helplessness came over him; for a moment his
lips came to the surface and he gave a gurgling cry.
Out went the undertow again, and out went Tom with it, only to meet
another breaker and to be again whirled by it toward the beach. By this
time he had given up struggling, and everything was sliding away from
him.
All of a sudden he felt himself clutched by the shirt. Once more came
the horrible dragging of the undertow, but this time some one was
holding him against it. Everything was glimmering to his sight, but he
felt that he was being dragged up on the beach, and at last that he was
lying on the dry sand, face up, and Jack Baldwin panting alongside of
him.
PART II
CHAPTER X.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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