As I write there is an appalling, long-drawn crash, which brings the
whole Quarter to its doors and windows. "Bombs" are in everybody's mouth,
and I find myself automatically repeating a sentence out of the Latin
exercise-book of my boyhood: "How comes it that thunder is sometimes
heard when the sky is clear?" I irrelevantly remember that "sometimes"
must be translated "not never." In the streets little groups are
gathered, gesticulating and surmising. Some say "The Panthéon," others
"The Luxembourg"; others trust it is only a gas explosion. I shock my
group by hoping it is a bomb, so that I may say I have heard it go off.
But I know nothing till I read "Paris Day by Day" next evening in "The
Daily Telegraph," and find that my ambition has been gratified, and that
the chief victim of the explosion is a Decadent Poet. Has any one been
taking seriously Nordau's cry for the extinction of the Degenerates?
The dead have their day in France, but it was not _le jour des morts_
when I bethought myself of visiting the grave of Maupassant. I do not
care for these crowded "at homes,"--I prefer to pay my respects in
solitude. You will not think this remark flippant if you are familiar
with French cemeteries, if you know those great family sepulchres, fitted
up as little chapels, through whose doors, crowned with the black cross,
you may see the great wax tapers in the candelabra at the altar, the
stained-glass windows with the figure of the Madonna and Child, the
eikons of Christ, the praying-stools, the vases, the busts or photographs
of the deceased--worthy people who not only thought life worth living but
death worth dying, and did the one and the other respectably and
becomingly. Maupassant lies in one art-quarter of Paris, just as Heinrich
Heine lies in the other. The cemetery is off the Boulevard Raspail,
within bow-shot of the _ateliers_ of Whistler and Bouguereau, overlooked
by an imposing statue of M. Raspail which sets forth that scientific
citizen's many virtues and services. He proclaimed Universal Franchise in
1830, he proclaimed the Republic in 1848, and his pedestal now proclaims
with equal cocksureness that science is the only religion of the future.
"Give me a cell and I will build you up all organised life," cries the
statue, and its stony hand seems to wave theatrically as in emulation of
the bas-reliefs on its base representing Raspail animating his
_camarades_ to victory. But alas! _tout passe, tout casse, tout lasse_,
and not all the residents of the Boulevard are aware of the origin of
their address. Chateaubriand survives as a steak and Raspail as a
Boulevard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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