In the Central plateau, however, and the south of India the skirt is
also dispensed with by a fashion that can claim at once antiquity
and respectability. There it is the long mantle, twenty-five feet in
length, which is worn. Of thick coarse silk and dark solid colour, it
is so draped as to be caught between the legs in a broad, low-hanging
fold, tucked loosely at the back. Its folds are carefully arranged to
leave a double thickness, marked by the border of the mantle, over
the upper part of the legs. It is a style inherited from a remote
antiquity, descendant from the dresses seen even on Buddhist carvings
in the great rock temples of the Deccan. Beautiful it can hardly be
called, with its effect of a divided skirt and its too clumsy folds
and thicknesses; but it is certainly not frivolous. Rather perhaps
should one say that it is eminently respectable, with its sameness
and stiff conventionality. The pressure of the ascetic ideal is shown
even more strongly in the monotonous colours, dark blue usually or
dark green, which are the ordinary wear in those parts of the country.
To the artist the costume, one would think, had little value; yet
that it can be idealized is seen from the effects achieved in the
simplifications of early sculpture. This contrast in dress between the
southern part of the Peninsula and Gujarát or Northern India reflects
once again that contrast in belief and character which has already,
perhaps with a too frequent repetition, been remarked. This monotony
of asceticism is even more noticeable in the south in the dress of
widows (poor creatures with shaven heads, their limbs untouched by a
single jewel!)--a dress of a mantle only, white or of a strange dull,
dingy red--a dress that kills all looks and attractions, save where the
light of religious duty, nature overcome, makes the starved face seem
spiritual.
[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE UNITED PROVINCES]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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