of innocent accident, without a hint of ostentation. At the same time
it must be loose enough to allow graceful folds to drop naturally from
the head to the shoulders, and tight enough to sit close at the breast
whose curves it accentuates while it seems to veil. Enough but not
too much of the bodice must be shown with a fine nicety. The border
is at times allowed to turn carelessly up, till the gold armlet above
the elbow can be seen even on the covered right arm. At one moment, a
modest gesture brings the mantle across the face, as in shy courtesy
before an elder or an illustrious man; in a crowd it is draped to hide
both arms and conceal the figure; when it slips, it is quickly drawn
forward over the head with a charming pretence of timidity. The Márwári
woman by a trick peculiar to herself makes of her mantle a screen held
open between two fingers, through which only her lustrous eye appears,
melting and languorous; and in the armoury of every Indian woman the
mantle by its nice management is the chief instrument of love.
[Illustration: A WIDOW IN THE DECCAN]
The short mantle, worn as described, should of course imply a skirt.
But in the south of Gujarát, from Surat to Bombay, whether from the
steamy warmth of the climate or from some subtle change of mood,
ladies of the richer classes, while continuing to drape the mantle
in the same graceful way, have of late years given up the usage of a
skirt and wear at most a trim lace petticoat. The effect is not unlike
that of a recent ephemeral fashion in Western Europe. Seen in the bold
Indian sunlight, the double thicknesses of light silk or cotton are
little less transparent than a veil of gauze and limbs are revealed in
a shadowed fulness, which is less modest than it is suggestive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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