Dress even in its simplest form has been seen to have its sectarian
meaning and restrictions. A widow for instance, at least among orthodox
Brahmans in the Peninsula, is limited to certain solid colours,
never black or dark blue, red as a rule, or white. And every woman
is restricted to definite shapes and cut. To transgress beyond these
limits would be to offend against caste rules with a sanctity defended
and sanctioned by a caste tribunal. But greater significance attaches
to the use of jewelry. Some stones are valued for this or that magical
virtue; certain metals can or must be used only at definite times and
places: some shapes of ornament are bidden or forbidden to a certain
caste. The prohibition against wearing gold upon the feet is the most
obvious instance. Here a value of a magical kind, as a purifying agent,
is ascribed to the metal, and its use was not allowed on limbs where it
might be contaminated by the dust and dirt of the road. Only in royal
families is the prescription ever disregarded; and even then only by
few.
Of forms and modes of ornament peculiar to one caste and partly at
least sanctified by superstition, something has already been said in
describing the fisher and the gipsy women. But instances might be
multiplied without end. Each section nearly of the community has at
least one peculiar jewel, associated with a religious festival or a
caste ceremony or belief. Perhaps the most obvious examples are the
charms and talismans freely worn by all classes of Mussulman women.
In these the stones and their settings are the symbolic expressions
of deep and mysterious thoughts and the instruments of a magical
significance. On amulets of white jade or carnelian are inscribed
in Arabic characters the highest names of the Most High. On other
cartouches are engraved the sacred symbols of the Jewish Cabbalists,
just as Hindus draw and venerate that sign of the Swastika which from
the time of the Bronze Age has presented the beneficent motions of
the sun. They have little boxes of chased gold in which are enclosed
written charms to protect the wearer from the malice of jinns and the
malevolence of the evil eye. On heart-shaped plates of silver they cut
the sacred hand which persists in the escutcheon of Ulster baronets,
and on others are inscribed the name of “Tileth” and the injunction,
“Adam and Eve away from here.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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