But the use of jewelry has a religious tinge no less among Hindus. It
is for instance a common belief that at least a speck of gold must be
worn upon the person to ensure ceremonial purity. Thus in Northern
India there are castes where married women wear plates of gold on some
of the front teeth; while it is general when preparing the dead for
the burning to attach a gold coin or ring to the corpse. Moreover, the
wearing of jewelry by women is prescribed by the sacred text which
says: “A wife being gaily adorned, her whole house is embellished, but
if she be destitute of ornaments, all will be deprived of decoration.”
This again is one reason why there is so little change in the design.
Variety there is, and indeed the number of ornaments, each with a
different name and use, is almost bewildering. But in each kind the
design passes from one to another generation almost unchanged, and
the craftsman has no need to devise new forms and varying settings.
What has been worn by the grandmother will be equally pleasing to the
grand-daughter. When there is change and variety, it is only in the
large commercial cities, where European patterns are being exploited to
the ruin of indigenous craftsmanship.
The bracelet is the most significant and the nose-ring the most
peculiar of Indian ornaments. For bracelets are above all the visible
sign of marriage. Young girls before their wedding may wear bangles of
many kinds: but the first act of widowhood is to discard them all. Some
which are made of lac are peculiar to the married woman, and next to
them in significance are the bangles of variegated glass which are so
much appreciated. On the husband’s death these are at once shattered;
and the same breaking of bangles is the accompaniment of divorce. The
nose-ring, as it is called in English, is only seldom in shape a ring.
In Northern India indeed, in certain castes, a real ring of large
diameter passes through the cartilage; and its effect is not beautiful.
But in most places and classes, it is not so much a ring as a small
cluster of gems affixed by one means or another to the nostril. That
worn most commonly in the Deccan--a sort of brooch with a large almost
triangular setting--is also clumsy and unbeautiful. Another type, worn
by the cultivators of Gujarát, is like a button in which the jewelled
top screws, through a hole bored in the nostril, into the lower half--a
form no less ungainly. But Mussulmans adopt a different and more
graceful form. Through the central cartilage of the nose a small gold
wire passes on which drops a jewel, at its best a fine pear-shaped
pearl, dangling down to the central curve of the upper lip. But the
prettiest of all--a real aid this to a pretty face--is a small stud
of a single diamond or ruby fixed almost at the corner of the left
nostril. Here it has the value of a tiny beauty-spot, more attractive
by its sheen, and draws the eye to the curve of a finely-chiselled nose
and down to the petulant smiling lips.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account