Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States — John Shaqi
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
Of particular interest are the lead disks which are wrapped in linen and
attached near the hem next to the side seams by means of patches. No
doubt these weights were used to keep the gown in place when the bather
entered the water.
The following account of bathing in Dover, England, in 1782 suggests how
the bathing gown might have been used at Berkeley Springs:
The Ladies in a morning when they intend to bathe, put on a long
flannel gown under their other clothes, walk down to the beach,
undress themselves to the flannel, then they walk in as deep as
they please, and lay hold of the guides' hands, three or four
together sometimes.
Then they dip over head twenty times perhaps; then they come
onto the shore where there are women that attend with towels,
cloaks, chairs, etc. The flannel is stripp'd off, wip'd dry,
etc. Women hold cloaks round them. They dress themselves and go
home.[27]
[27] _Diary of John Crosier_, 1782, as quoted in C. WILLETT and
PHILLIS CUNNINGTON, _Handbook of English Costume in the
Eighteenth Century_ (London: Faber and Faber, 1957), p. 404.
The earliest illustration showing costume worn in the United States for
fresh water bathing is dated 1810 (see fig. 2). Unfortunately the
painting reveals only that the bathing gowns were long and dark colored
in comparison with the white dresses of the period.
An 1848 article which described, in detail, the fashionable dress called
for by each activity at summer resorts, concludes with the following
tantalizing paragraph:
We have no space for an extended description of suitable
bathing-dresses. They may be procured at any of our town
establishments for the purpose. Much depends upon individual
taste in their arrangement, for uncouth as they often of
necessity are, they can be improved by a little tact.[28]
[28] Loc. cit. (footnote 19).
This is the only reference to American bathing costume of the second
quarter of the 19th century that the author has found at this time.
Nevertheless, an English source describes what must have been a
transitional style between the chemise-type bathing gown and the more
fitted costume of the 1850s.
The _Workwoman's Guide_, published in London, 1840, included
instructions for making both a bathing gown and a bathing cap. Health
and modesty were the main considerations that influenced the choice of
color and type of material.
Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff,
calimanco, or blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the
water should have free access to the person, and yet that the
dress should not cling to, or weigh down the bather, stuff or
calimanco are preferred to most other materials; the dark
coloured gowns are the best for several reasons, but chiefly
because they do not show the figure, and make the bather less
conspicuous than she would be in a white dress.[29]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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