Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United StatesKidwell, Claudia Brush
History
Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States
Kidwell, Claudia Brush
Bathing suits -- History
During the first half of the 19th century in England and the United
States, a more tolerant attitude toward feminine exercise led women to
abandon the fiction that they were not bipedal while bathing. This
acknowledgment, however, was not fostered solely by the need for a more
functional bathing dress. It was first evidenced by a few daring
European women who wore lace-edged pantaloons trimmed with several rows
of tucking under their daytime dresses. The shorter, untrimmed,
knee-length drawers which quickly replaced the pantaloons, became an
unseen but essential item in the fashionable English lady's toilette of
the 1840s. These drawers, or a plainer version of the longer pantaloons,
were adapted not only to the female riding habit but the bathing dress
as well. An 1828 English source reported that "Many ladies when riding
wear silk drawers similar to what is worn when bathing."[33] With the
increased interest in physical exercise for women, ankle-length, open
pantaloons also were being worn in the 1840s with a long overdress as an
early form of gymnasium suit. This evidence of the early use of drawers
suggests that, like English ladies, women in the United States were
probably wearing a type of drawers beneath their nondescript bathing
gowns during the second quarter of the 19th century. There is some
slight support of this theory in the following stanza of a poem that
appeared in 1845:
But go to the beach ere the morning be ended
And look at the bathers--oh what an array
The ladies in trowsers, the _gemmen_ in _blowses_
E'en red flannel shirts are the "go" at Cape May.[34]
[33] As quoted in C. WILLETT and PHILLIS CUNNINGTON, _The History of
Underclothes_ (London: Faber and Faber, 1951), p. 130.
[34] "Cape May," _Godey's Lady's Book_ (December 1845), vol. 31, p.
268.
The rather crude but delightful sketch of seabathing at Coney Island in
1856 (fig. 7) shows the ladies wearing very full, ankle-length, trousers
with a sack top extending loosely only a few inches below the waist.
This type of bathing costume, which was primarily a bifurcated garment
instead of a skirted one, became the prevailing fashion as reported in
English women's magazines of the 1860s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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