The loose straight suit, which evidently gained its inspiration from the chemise frock of the period, had no waistline and hung straight from the shoulders (fig. 15); a belt or sash was frequently looped below the natural waistline on the hips. The chemise-type of bathing suit differed from the surplice only in having no fitted waist and requiring less fabric. [Illustration: Figure 15.--BLACK SILK BATHING DRESS, 1923. (Smithsonian photo P-65412.)] In the June 15, 1917 issue, _Vogue_ modified its position of two weeks earlier to acknowledge that there was a third style of costume worn in the water. Again, the descriptions of the surplice and chemise-type bathing suits were accompanied by numerous illustrations. No drawings, however, were published to show the knitted jersey suit that was described as "... usually sleeveless, quite short and fairly straight ..." and "... intended for the woman who swims expertly."[56] [56] Ibid. (June 15, 1917), vol. 49, no. 12, p. 67. As late as the early 1920s, the fashion pages of _Harper's Bazar_ and _Vogue_ were concentrated on the bathing suits, aiming at readers involved in the social life of the seaside resorts--lounging about the beach with occasional splashing in the water. The growing numbers of women who wanted swimming suits, however, had only to turn to the advertising sections of these same magazines to find that even in 1915 such shops as Bonwit Teller & Co. and B. Altman & Co. were advertising knitted swimming suits. In June 1916, _Delineator_ solved the dilemma of bathing versus swimming costume in an intriguing article written to sell a pattern for a bathing costume. In description and presentation of illustrations, the article emphasized a costume with "all the features essential to a practical swimming-suit."[57] The blouse and bloomers were attached at the waist in this garment which had a square neckline and no skirt or sleeves. Made up in wool jersey, this would have been a practical swimming costume for the period. But this was not the only style available from this one pattern. The following variations were included: a sailor collar on a "V" neckline; a high-standing collar, long sleeves; and a detachable skirt with the fullness either pleated or gathered into a waistband, to be worn long to the knees or just short enough to show several inches of the bloomer. In this way _Delineator_ succeeded in satisfying nearly every degree of conservatism--an amazing accomplishment. [57] "For the Modern Mermaid," _Delineator_ (June 1916), vol. 38, no. 6, p. 52.