There is generally less wind under the shelter or lee of the land.
But this is not always the case, and the most experienced seaman
cannot always foretell whether this will be so or not. Sometimes the
wind seems to belong to the land, and there may be little or none of
it out at sea. Under high land--cliffs or mountains--you may lose the
wind altogether; you may find it blowing in occasional baffling puffs
of great violence and uncertain direction, or you may find it blowing
much harder, not in puffs merely but altogether. It is not an uncommon
experience, especially in the Mediterranean, to run down a coast
before a fresh breeze, and to find a perfect tornado blowing when you
turn a corner and luff up under the land. This is one of nature's
paradoxes--one of the undoubted facts that one occasionally meets
which seem opposed to all reason and probability. I do not know how
far it has ever been scientifically explained.
Some places where there is high land seem to brew their own wind. Loch
Scavaig, in Skye, under the Coolin hills, is an instance of this. It
may be fine and almost calm outside, but as you sail into its gloomy
waters you may find a perfect tempest blowing in or out. It staggers
one to think what it must be like in a real gale of wind.
In Carlingford Lough, Ireland, last autumn, when there was but a
fine-weather breeze blowing outside, the puffs off the mountain on the
south of the lough took the form of a succession of regular
waterspouts, any one of which would have twisted the mast out of the
boat or capsized her if it had struck her. We kept as far to leeward
as we could, and most of them died away before they crossed our track,
but they felt very uncanny.
Speaking generally, high land is always dangerous for boat-sailing, as
well as trying to the temper. On a day when there is nothing but a
fine-weather breeze elsewhere, under high land you are liable to get
puffs as violent while they last as a gale of wind. It is as though
the hills bottled up and concentrated the wind, so that when it is let
loose it comes with double force; and these puffs are specially
dangerous to a boat apart from their force: first, because the angle
at which they will strike is so uncertain, and secondly, because,
coming from above and striking downwards, a boat does not relieve the
pressure on her sails by heeling over as she does when the wind blows
horizontally along the water. This is the reason why you will probably
find that the squalls that go nearest capsizing your boat are not
those that you have seen tearing towards you turning the water into
smoke as they come, violent as these may be, but those which you have
hardly seen a sign of on the water at all, and which strike the sails
with a downward blow straight from the mountain side. The Sound of
Raasay, outside Portree Harbour, when a westerly wind is blowing over
the tremendous cliffs of Skye, is a fine place for the study of these
phenomena.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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